Nobody on here has any financial gain for the info, its free!!
As woZ says, get the parts, take pics and we'll advise ya

 

Afternoon chaps, well the garage don't have the parts for me to be able to photograph, admittedly in my anger I also forgot to ask the manufacturer of the clutch that was fitted.

Anyway as it stands at the moment they have told me that the clutch will need time to bed into the flywheel as it will need to adjust to the shape of the flywheel, they say that as it had worn unevenly prior to this the new clutch will take time to shape to it and also asked me to drive it over the weekend and to occaisionaly slip the clutch :screwy

When they told me this I was blown away really and couldn't beleive it, surely they should've just replaced the clutch and DMF as it doesn't make sense to bed a new clutch to a ***** peice of kit!! And after all that is what it was booked in for!

They even said that the spigot was worn so this could be causing the judder, surley if that were the case it too should've been replaced..

I haven't fully lost my rag with them yet but I feel that Monday could be the day, I'm going to ask for my money back and then take it to be done somewhere else, may even think about Bilcar.

There's no way I can put up with the Judder, and I'm concerened that they've done a real BODGE JOB on it and it's just a timebomb waiting to go BOOMB..

At least now I'm very much wiser thanks to all of you.

I'd still appreciate your thoughts on the above..

Cheers,

Jamie, £500 poorer with a Juddery clutch but still with a Fine Truck... :hug

 

UNBELIEVABLE!!!
Where are the parts? (Have they had a scrap collection Friday morning, or has Tinkerbelle whisked them away to lala land?)
Nobody in their right mind would fit a new clutch to a fooked flywheel!!! (Let alone a so called professional)
Why did they tell you the flywheel was ok, then say it was worn again on collection? (Because they had one on the shelf if you'd have taken advise from them on a DMF)
If the first motion shaft was as loose as they say it was, it would have goofed the oil seal, why no oil leak into the bell housing or clutch contamination? (i suggest there is no play)
If the spigot bush/bearing was goofed, why didn't they advise you of this on removal, more to the point why haven’t they replaced it (cos it aint goofed)

I'm sorry pal, but in my professional opinion and with plenty years behind me, I have never heard such utter ******** in my entire life.

I'd demand a full refund, not happy with them correcting it.
Failure to agree (which they won't)................ Two Words, Trading Standards...

I think I’m done on this; blood pressure is starting to rise....

 

Sorry Jamie I've had to sit on my hands for a while before posting
I think you already know you've been :wedgie
They've got none of the parts, with reasons of uneven faces, worn spigot bush, bedding in, slip the clutch :really
These parts are rotating so there is no 'high spots' to speak of and being friction materials they wear in unison :slaphead
Judder is caused by contamination or poor inferior components.........end of :!:
I suspect your £500 has bought you, your own clutch assembly and a 'greased up' release bearing
Feel for you mate

 

Hi, thank you all for your advice and support. The clutch does seem to be better but I'm still not happy about the whole situation, as I've effectively given away £500 to be in the same position as I was when I first took it to the garage, still got the noise etc...

I will update you as to the outcome over the next few days.

Cheers,

Jamie.

 

Well I've got somewhere...

Have had the labour costs refunded to me :awesomework

I've spoken to a couple of different garages and neither of them will rule out the gearbox as being the source of the noise.

Is it not just a case of putting my truck on the ramps and getting underneath and listening to where the chatter noise is coming from or does it just resinate through the whole lot making it impossible to tell..

I don't want to ave to have a new flywheel fitted to hen find out it's the gearbox.

What do you think, would it be the flywheel 9 times out of 10 and should I just do it..

Cheers and sorry to keep banging on about it..

P.S. the noise only starts when the engine is warm and when first started it's fine with no noise..

 

How much did you get back Jamie? I know the pain you are going through as I got f****d about with the clutch last year with my Honda Civic and that was a main dealer! It is my absolute main reason I am now 100% determined to get an automatic!

 

Jamie,

I think it may help if you look up how a clutch works and how a dual mass flywheel works. If you understood it you would then understand what you are being told.

Unless the clutch and flywheel is changed, you will continue to have problems. You have had some good quality advice, stop faffing about, buy the right kit and have it installed by a reputable garage.

 

Jamie,

I think it may help if you look up how a clutch works and how a dual mass flywheel works. If you understood it you would then understand what you are being told.

Unless the clutch and flywheel is changed, you will continue to have problems. You have had some good quality advice, stop faffing about, buy the right kit and have it installed by a reputable garage.

Whereas I agree to your comments to a certain point, I certainly don't want to go ahead and pay all the labour to fit a new Solid flywheel, put it all back together and then be told "yea sorry we thought it was the flywheel so pay us £700 for that and now a further £1000 to fit a recon gearbox" I would just like to be sure I'm replacing what needs to be replaced..

There's no question that the advice on here is sound, I just don't want to throw money away for no reason.

 

This all comes down to using a reputable garage. Because you are not mechanically savvy, you are leaving yourself wide open to being fiddled. are there any forum members near to you?

At the end of the day the clutch and flywheel will need to be checked/replaced and while it is apart the gearbox can be looked at. A reputable garage will give you the right advice.

 

Im sorry for ya buddy, but ya should have listened in the first place and taken the free and very qualified advice given by several folk.
Sorry, I know in being harsh :dunno

 

Jamie,

I think it may help if you look up how a clutch works and how a dual mass flywheel works. If you understood it you would then understand what you are being told.

Unless the clutch and flywheel is changed, you will continue to have problems. You have had some good quality advice, stop faffing about, buy the right kit and have it installed by a reputable garage.

Whereas I agree to your comments to a certain point, I certainly don't want to go ahead and pay all the labour to fit a new Solid flywheel, put it all back together and then be told "yea sorry we thought it was the flywheel so pay us £700 for that and now a further £1000 to fit a recon gearbox" I would just like to be sure I'm replacing what needs to be replaced..

There's no question that the advice on here is sound, I just don't want to throw money away for no reason.

Sorry mate I don't think anyone can offer any further advice to you on this for the following reasons:

a) Truck booked in to have DMF and clutch replaced but the garage discovers a solid flywheel and clutch conversion assembly's already been fitted, which we find highly un-likely :dunno
b) Faces were worn unevenly :?: What faces, the pressure plate, friction plate, flywheel :?: if it was the flywheel was it or was it not refaced prior to a new clutch assembly being fitted, if indeed a solid conversion has been fitted :dunno
c) After our input the garage admits spigot bush is worn in crankshaft but you didn't tell us if they did or didn't replace it :dunno
d) None of the old parts were available for inspection directly after the job so we cannot identify anything and you forgot to ask them what type/make of clutch was or wasn't fitted :faint
e) No mention of what was/was not fitted or what was invoiced to you :?: the only info you've given us is a labour refund :?
f) We/you now have no idea what type or make of clutch assembly exists in your truck :dunno

So, you're now asking us what to do :2far

 

I'm glad its not just me thinking like that ...
Well explained Woz :clap

 

I've got a new Exedy Clutch and solid flywheel kit on its way to me now and Truck will be going to a Garage that has been recomended to me so hopefully that'll be the end of it all..

 

Oh Bugger.. sorry for resurrecting an old post, I just read through this whole thread as I was looking for some information on my issue which sounds very similar, Except mine only became evident AFTER fitting new SMF & Clutch on my Pathfinder?
Before changing everything, I had some very minor clutch judder, and the DMF was knocking a little, so thought I would catch it early and upgrade.
Unfortunately I had not set eyes on this forum before I did it, so in my ignorance bought a Cheap unbranded SMF & Clutch kit from Techniclutch on Ebay, after all, no matter how cheap, it still has to meet spec right :faint
My mechanic installed it and within 5-10 mins of starting the car, I knew I had made a mistake ! the mechanic is not to blame as he just did exactly what I asked, it was his last working day before Christmas and was doing it as a bit of a favour
I have EXACTLY the same rattling you mentioned, only starts after a few mins once warm, only present at idle and goes away once clutch depressed, I have also now got REALLY BAD clutch judder and vibrations through the car when accelerating.
Looks like I was also fed a similar line of BS to you, as when I contacted Techniclutch they said things like let it bed in, rattle is normal with SMF etc etc
Now done almost 1000 miles and actually seems worse ops

But I'm in a bit of a confused state now ?
Believing that maybe OEM is best, I have ordered a new LUK DMF and Exedy clutch kit, also new slave and master cylinders.
Really though I would prefer a SMF, as plenty of people on here have said that they have done the conversion with no ill effects and lets face it they just done fail like a DMF, But I'm really worried about this rattle ? Will it still be present if I fit a good quality SMF ? Do I need to be looking at this spigot bearing / bush, am I just masking a bigger problem if like Techniclutch reckon the DMF absorbs the rattle ? will I get really bad vibrations ? :dunno

i ordered the Flywheel & Clutch from Eurocarparts as if there is an issue again its easier to deal with my local branch than the hassle i have been having online with Techniclutch , So It's not too late to change my order to a SMF.. Oh what to do :nailbiting

A few people have suggested taking it to Kaiser motor which I would love to do, but having already paid out once for it to be done, I cannot afford to take it to them ....

 

Stick with the DMF now you've ordered it. It is not a bad idea to change the spigot bush while everything is stripped.

There needs to be a bit of time spent doing the job with no outside pressure. When everything is stripped down and before the new parts are fitted the mechanic needs to properly inspect the bellhousing area for leaks etc.
The release mechanism needs to be checked as well. It might be a good idea to ask to see the ongoing work at this point.

Good luck, a spigot bush shouldn't be too expensive.

 

Stick with the DMF now you've ordered it. It is not a bad idea to change the spigot bush while everything is stripped.

There needs to be a bit of time spent doing the job with no outside pressure. When everything is stripped down and before the new parts are fitted the mechanic needs to properly inspect the bellhousing area for leaks etc.
The release mechanism needs to be checked as well. It might be a good idea to ask to see the ongoing work at this point.

Good luck, a spigot bush shouldn't be too expensive.

I think it's the worst of 2 evils.
there is no way I could put up with the rattling from the gearbox, so DMF it has to be.
now ordered a spigot bush too :thumbright:
I will be there to help and act as a labourer, so I guess it will be my job to clean the bellhousing etc and make tea

Out of interest, is there actually a way of stopping this rattling without fitting a DMF ? I had a Peugeot a few years ago that had 2 DMF failures so we then went to SMF and had no issues of any description ? Smooth as anything, no rattles no judder :dunno or does it just depend on the car ?

 

I think it has more to do with the quality of the clutch and flywheel. You'll soon know for sure when the new kit is in and the noise hopefully goes away. :fingersx

 

I had a new SMF and then a new DMF pretty much straight after as the SMFwas fitted when I had asked and paid for a DMF, I hate to tell you but I still have the noise and I have been told it's ware on the actual gear box shaft..

 

I had a new SMF and then a new DMF pretty much straight after as the SMFwas fitted when I had asked and paid for a DMF, I hate to tell you but I still have the noise and I have been told it's ware on the actual gear box shaft..

Well the good news is, we fitted a new LUK DMF & Exedy Clutch kit last week.
No rattles, whines, vibrations, judders or anything ! Its now lovely and smooth :confetti
My only gripe would be the gearchange is still a little notchy even with the expensive Castrol syntrans ? Maybe in a few weeks I might look at putting something a little thinner in there once I've done the research ? anyone have suggestions based on experience ?