No it wouldn't fix a whistle.

 

Any idea what would fix whistle noise, the 3 hoses from the solenoid have been replaced

 

The first check is that all the intake pipes are clipped properly and that there aren't any splits in the hoses.

 

hi guys, this might seem stupid but i can t find the boost soleniod on my 61 plate nav, i have taken the air filter box out and still cant see it. i have already bought a replacement so have something to reference against. is there another location for this other than low down near the turbo?

 

Its attached to the turbo itself no2 in pic its electronic not run by vacuum like the earlier models

 

It does, yes.

A much better system on the later models which varies the turbo vanes according to demand. The older vacuum one is more like an on/off switch.

 

So is that cars from when they introduced the 2010 190bhp ?

 

Yes

could i replace it or bypass it with the older on/off version that i have bought to get it running normal until over Christmas do you think?

Definitely not. The turbo is different and the ECU has been setup for the electronic actuator.

 

could i replace it or bypass it with the older on/off version that i have bought to get it running normal until over Christmas do you think?

 

cheers!

 

update on my nav. fixed the limp mode as it was a burnt out exhaust gas sensor and nothing to do with the EGR nor the suction control valve. the fault code kept coming up as EGR but when this was removed to be inspected and then reinstalled it changed its mind to the exhaust gas sensor, very strange.

 

Hi landie.
Ok..best I can describe these pipes..
ATM..goes to the waffle hose..air box.
Out..go to the round silver thing,with leaver under it..
Vac..goes to somewhere under the plastic engine cover..
Is this correct?
Leaver still not moving with the new bcv…but was with old one..

 

Hi guys.
Paranoid,that I got the pipes around the wrong way…due to the fact,the boost lever works and goes up n down..now fitted 2 brand new ones..and the leaver does NOT go up n down..
Surely 2 new ones can’t be faulty.
Can someone please advise if I have the pipes the right way? And going to correct places?
Thanks..see pics

 

Sorry,
I,meant booster leaver work going up n down on old bcv..but does not work on the 2 new bcv,s…

 

A tonne of thanks to the guy who created this post! My Navara was overheating so i had to take it to a mechanic, he suggested me tat radiator and thermostat need to be changed and during service he change few pipes as well, during servicee one of his boys broke the heatr Tee piece which is a **** to fix, so he made a Tee usinng his skills and fixed that part, after collecting my car i started feeling sluggish and spped wont go above 110kph, felt like no kick is coming out of the turbo. started looking for a hint in the internet forums and hit this one by my luck! i started following all the tubes as described using the image in this forum and saw that the tube going into turbo was broken because of excessive pressure on it caused by the new (custom)heater tee, i reconnected the tube, had a thick black smoke come out of exhaust as i revved to 3000 rpm, whole alley was covered with unburnt diesel smoke! I am happy you guys helped me trace the issue! Rock On! Much appreciated!

 

A tonne of thanks to the guy who created this post! My Navara was overheating so i had to take it to a mechanic, he suggested me tat radiator and thermostat need to be changed and during service he change few pipes as well, during servicee one of his boys broke the heatr Tee piece which is a **** to fix, so he made a Tee usinng his skills and fixed that part, after collecting my car i started feeling sluggish and spped wont go above 110kph, felt like no kick is coming out of the turbo. started looking for a hint in the internet forums and hit this one by my luck! i started following all the tubes as described using the image in this forum and saw that the tube going into turbo was broken because of excessive pressure on it caused by the new (custom)heater tee, i reconnected the tube, had a thick black smoke come out of exhaust as i revved to 3000 rpm, whole alley was covered with unburnt diesel smoke! I am happy you guys helped me trace the issue! Rock On! Much appreciated!

Appreciate the feedback.

Actually pretty common to have problems with the vacuum operated turbo vane system. It was improved in 2010 by the way.

 

Hey..has the black smoked stopped…

 

Anyone had this?
The vaccum is strong in the pipe. But it struggles to pull the actuator rod.
Im thinking broken actuator?
Perhaps stuffed turbo?

(Boost control solenoid has been replaced)

Streamable Video

Watch this video on Streamable.

streamable.com

 

Anyone had this?
The vaccum is strong in the pipe. But it struggles to pull the actuator rod.
Im thinking broken actuator?
Perhaps stuffed turbo?

(Boost control solenoid has been replaced)

I've got something similar going on. Easy enough to test whether the actuator or turbo is your problem by removing the actuator and testing with a hand-held vac pump. Once removed you can also manually manipulate the lever on the turbo and confirm the vanes are opening and closing easily.

How strong is the vac on your line in? It is helpful to test the vacuum both from the pump to the boost control solenoid and from the BCS to the turbo. I wouldn't recommend removing the actuator unless you have first trouble shot vacuum and BCS and confirmed no issues there.

In my case the actuator would kind of get stuck around the 12 in/hg mark and stop, when by rights the rod should keep pulling up all the way to about 18 - 19in/hg (and hold). If you test while still in the car and the rod does not keep moving up, the problem could yet be a poorly calibrated stop screw. Hence why a bench test is most instructive.

It is not easy finding a genuine actuator, whether new or from a wrecker. I contacted a bunch of places and everyone wanted to sell me a whole new turbo. In the end I ordered this one from China which I expect will arrive in the next week or so, so I cannot tell you yet how good it is.

 

Yeah I’ve done a vaccum pressure test and replaced the turbo. But problem still exists.

Im getting these weird cut outs after engine braking and loads of smoke especially after long idle

 

Does anyone know why there is two different boost solenoids but the same part number?
One that fluctuates a lot more. The other seems more constant (better)

is it just that the cheap replicas fluctuates more then the OEM?

 

Hey guys I've ordered a cheap vacuum control solenoid for my 2010 Nissan navara it looks the exact same and goes slightly up and down at idle but when I give it revs it drops the waste gate open and let's all the pressure out of the ATM valve is this a faulty solenoid? And could I temporarily block the ATM valve off?

 

Just posting to say that I began to have the smoking and power loss issue and decide to have a look on here for guidance. I suspected turbo issues. Done the boost solenoid clean mentioned above and what a result! Like a new truck! Cost £nil.