[Jamez79]

Hi,

My truck has developed a whining noise. I tried re,oving the wife, but it's still there. (Couldn't resist that one) :lol:

It's coming from the engine and sounds similar in pitch to when a car stereo is suffering from interference.

The whine rises and falls in line with the engine revs. I've stuck my head under the bonnet but can't seem to locate where it's coming from. I'm guessing belts, alternator or turbo?

Can anyone give me a pointer on how to identify or at least narrow it down?

It's loud enough that I can hear it in the cab easily and it drowns out the usual sound of the engine.

Thanks in advance

 

[lookskyward1]

The alternator is the likely suspect, try using a long screwdriver as a stethoscope. Just watch out for moving parts. :fingersx

 

[Guest]

pulleys and belts also, when the bearing in the pulley fails it makes a terrible noise, and it only costs scraps to replace

 

[Jamez79]

Showing myself to be a muppet.... can you tell me how to use the screwdriver as a stethoscope? Do I just press it on and it will resonate the sound through it or is there something I'm missing?

Thanks

 

[Jamez79]

Cancel that. Found out what to do via youtube.

 

[B10]

What years yours?

 

[Jamez79]

2010 I haven't got a screwdriver long enough so going to borrow one off a mate. If I find the cause I'll let you know.

 

[B10]

Same as mine then, mine has a whine too, had it for about 10k miles now, can't find what it is either! I've heard a couple of other 2010/11 models make the same noise too in the last few days.

 

[Propshaft]

Mine has developed a bit of a whine, definitely engine related. It's only just barely noticeable, but when you notice it's annoying. I've noticed a bit of **** ( rust and rubber of sorts) ingrained on the idler wheel. When I think back it probably started when I had the air on compressor replaced (new belt also). I think mine might be a bit too tight, and idler wheel cleaned or replaced. A job for the next week or so.

 

[B10]

Mine has developed a bit of a whine, definitely engine related. It's only just barely noticeable, but when you notice it's annoying. I've noticed a bit of **** ( rust and rubber of sorts) ingrained on the idler wheel. When I think back it probably started when I had the air on compressor replaced (new belt also). I think mine might be a bit too tight, and idler wheel cleaned or replaced. A job for the next week or so.

Good point that, could just be the belt as I changed mine a while back and it seamed to stop for a while (was only very quiet then anyway). The auto adjuster does hold the belt very tight (had to replace that @60k miles too!) might try another belt if I keep it, off to look at a V6 on Thursday ;-)

 

[Jamez79]

Well mine started just before I went on holiday, so I thought I'd leave it until I came back. After leaving it on the driveway for a week, the battery was flat. Jump started it off the wife's car and it starts fine everytime now. There just wasn't enough juice to fire it up after a weeks rest. Would that point at the alternator do you think? Certain seems a suspect...

 

[Rich.]

Nope, i'd suspect you have something drawing current there. The fact that your alternator has since charged your battery proves its working fine. There have been quite a few threads recently about current drain, should be able to turn something up in a search . The most common culprit is usually a trailer socket if you have one fitted.

For the cost of an alternator, probably worth changing the tensioner bearings and belts first?

Rich

 

[Jamez79]

Ok Rich. Thanks. I'll have a look at the current draw threads to see if that turns anything up. I do have a trailer socket. A couple of bits came up as advisory on the mot last month so I can always get the belts changed when I get the bits sorted. (Cv gaiter starting to perish but not letting dirt in)

 

[B10]

Nope, i'd suspect you have something drawing current there. The fact that your alternator has since charged your battery proves its working fine. There have been quite a few threads recently about current drain, should be able to turn something up in a search . The most common culprit is usually a trailer socket if you have one fitted.

For the cost of an alternator, probably worth changing the tensioner bearings and belts first?

Rich

Don't bother with a tensioner bearing as yours is like mine and on a totally different tensioner than the old type most commonly owned on here, the tensioners fail very frequently as I found @ 60k miles, the tensioner is a spring loaded type and the centre bolt gives out and runs the pulley at an angle, mine did after I replacing the belt and fitting a new bearing to the pulley. Had to get a new tensioner (expensive). Cheap nasty parts fitted by nissan to fault I'm afraid.

 

[Rich.]

Ah are these the complete units you have to buy from Milners now? Such a shame as the pre-facelift tensioner bearings are a 10 minute job to fix!

Rich

 

[B10]

Ah are these the complete units you have to buy from Milners now? Such a shame as the pre-facelift tensioner bearings are a 10 minute job to fix!

Rich

As per my original post when mine collapsed, it is a complete spring loaded tensioner that is available from anywhere not JUST Milners! Just don't go to a main dealer as there £240!

 

[Jamez79]

Hi, my friendly local garage took the belt off the tensioner and when he turned it, I could hear the bearings inside. There's also a bit of play (rocks back and forth) too.

So do you recommend swapping the entire tensioner unit then?

They come in at around £170!!

The belt is in tact and is not catching or rubbing. I will replace it at the same time anyway.

Is it worth buying the wheel on its own, if they sell it on its own that is?

Or even pressing out the old bearings And replacing with new and then refitting?

TIA

 

[lookskyward1]

If you have the older tensioner, you can replace the bearings no problems, if it is the newer one, you're going t have to splash out. :cry

This is the older version

[attachment=0:10kf90hs]11925EB32A.jpg[/attachment:10kf90hs]


This is the new one


Wrong item removed

 

[B10]

Hi, my friendly local garage took the belt off the tensioner and when he turned it, I could hear the bearings inside. There's also a bit of play (rocks back and forth) too.

So do you recommend swapping the entire tensioner unit then?

They come in at around £170!!

The belt is in tact and is not catching or rubbing. I will replace it at the same time anyway.

Is it worth buying the wheel on its own, if they sell it on its own that is?

Or even pressing out the old bearings And replacing with new and then refitting?

TIA

You can actually buy the bearing on it's own to go in the pulley on the tensioner as it's a very common size used on a lot of cars. I replaced the bearing on mine as it had the tiniest bit of play, I fitted a new belt at the same time, 10 miles later the tensioner gave up where it pivots as it's a weak point on these. I paid £120 + vat for a Gates tensioner from a local factor (after I'd told him what the part number was!). **** design from new, the Gates replacement has a larger pivot bolt so may be of better longevity. Up to you but if your tensioner goes it will shred the belt and take out lots of lovely (expensive) pipes above it near the EGR valve.

 

[B10]

If you have the older tensioner, you can replace the bearings no problems, if it is the newer one, you're going t have to splash out. :cry

This is the older version

[attachment=1:2c69c9nf]11925EB32A.jpg[/attachment:2c69c9nf]


This is the new one

[attachment=0:2c69c9nf]11955_EA00B_Tensioner_Pulley_For_Navara_D40.jpg[/attachment:2c69c9nf]

That is not the new one by the way. It's similar but different mountings.