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Identifying what's causing whining noise

35K views 46 replies 5 participants last post by  Propshaft  
#1 ·
Hi,

My truck has developed a whining noise. I tried re,oving the wife, but it's still there. (Couldn't resist that one) :lol:

It's coming from the engine and sounds similar in pitch to when a car stereo is suffering from interference.

The whine rises and falls in line with the engine revs. I've stuck my head under the bonnet but can't seem to locate where it's coming from. I'm guessing belts, alternator or turbo?

Can anyone give me a pointer on how to identify or at least narrow it down?

It's loud enough that I can hear it in the cab easily and it drowns out the usual sound of the engine.

Thanks in advance
 
#27 ·
Mines the new one.

Do you happen to know the bearing size off hand?

I take it I could swap the pulley on the tensioner for a new one?

I found a tensioner on misterparts.co.uk for ÂŁ106

Changing the pulley would be the quickest fix I expect. It's an expensive old game. That's for sure.
 
#28 ·
Jamez79 said:
Mines the new one.

Do you happen to know the bearing size off hand?

I take it I could swap the pulley on the tensioner for a new one?

I found a tensioner on misterparts.co.uk for ÂŁ106

Changing the pulley would be the quickest fix I expect. It's an expensive old game. That's for sure.
I don't off hand but when I took the pulley to the local factors, he said oh it's a """""" bearing and said it was the most common one available. Can have a look in the morning for a part number if you like.

How many miles has yours done?
 
#29 ·
It's on almost 80k. Other than the whine that's started, it runs fine. It's not particularly loud, it's just now I've noticed it, it's annoying.

I think I'll go for the bearing first and monitor it like a hawk. Then if any signs of it not being spot on, I'll dip deeper into my pocket for the tensioner.
 
#30 ·
Jamez79 said:
It's on almost 80k. Other than the whine that's started, it runs fine. It's not particularly loud, it's just now I've noticed it, it's annoying.

I think I'll go for the bearing first and monitor it like a hawk. Then if any signs of it not being spot on, I'll dip deeper into my pocket for the tensioner.
Mine gave up at 60k, others have gone as low as 10k.
 
#31 ·
I'll buy the bearing or pulley and see how I get on. Unless I manage to find the tensioner a bit cheaper. Typical that it's always when you've spent cash that you need it!

If you could find the size or part number that would be great, or the name of the factors you went to for the bearing so I can find one near me.

Thanks
 
#32 ·
Bearing part number, 6203 which may just be there own part number I'm afraid. Local factors not a nationwide chain so won't be able to help there sorry.

The tensioner has a Gates part number of T39170 which cost me ÂŁ119+vat.
Main belt is 7pk1750

Hope that's of some use.
 
#35 ·
I've found the tensioner for ÂŁ106 over here or roughly ÂŁ85 on a may amayama trading whoch would take a couple of weeks to arrive. I'll see if I can swap the bearing first. Not had chance to get round to it yet though. Noise hasn't got any worse, but it needs doing.
 
#36 ·
Whining noise - FIXED

Right, I've swapped the bearing in the tensioner pulley and refitted it. Took the truck for a few runs out and it all appears fixed!

:dance:

I can't believe how quiet the truck is now. I'd really got used to the noise the duff bearing made.

The cheapest price I found for the entire automatic tensioner unit is ÂŁ106 from Mister Auto, delivered in 48hrs or less. It can be bought for around ÂŁ85 from Amayama Trading, but it'll take a couple of weeks to arrive and there will possibly be taxes to pay and/or delivery fees.

The bearing I bought cost me ÂŁ8.33. I could've bought it off the internet for less, but I wanted the option of returning it or swapping it if it wasn't the correct one.

The bearing taken out of the pulley tensioner is 6203DUL1B made by NSK. The bearing I bought was 6203-2RSH. When I removed the original bearing, I called the bearing supplier (anti friction based in Birmingham) and they called NSK to see what the DUL1B meant. NSK refused to tell them. he said the 6203 relates to the type and size of the bearing so the fundamentals are the same. The later part most likely relates to the type of seal or maybe a bevel on the outer race to assist seating during manufacture. I checked both bearings side by side and they appear identical. For ÂŁ8.33 it was worth a punt. I did a little how too...

Only took me an hour tops and I was REALLY dragging my feet to make sure I'd done it correctly and that included the phone call to the supplier.


1) Using a 14mm socket, with the bonnet open, looking into the engine bay from above, fit the socket and ratchet onto the tensioner bolt so the ratchet is sticking out to the right. Push down gently but firmly to take the strain off the belt so it can be removed from the pulley. I moved the belt from under the upper most pulley which creates enough slack so that the tensioner can be released and the bolt then undone with the 14mm socket.


2) Once the pulley is off, press out the old bearing. I don't own bearing pullers etc, so I just used a length of threaded bar, a few washers (30mm fitted well) and a piece of wood just to protect the pulley itself as I wound the nut tight to pull the old bearing out.

3) Fit the new bearing. Give the pulley a clean and then fit the new bearing in the same manner as removal. Just take your time to line the bearing up flat. The 30mm washers help stop the bearing being damaged during fitting.

4) Refit the pulley. Couldn't find a torque setting for the bolt so I've just done it up until it moved the pulley tensioner again. Then whilst pressing the tensioner, as explained in step 1, slip the belt back on making sure it is routed correctly and on the pulleys properly. Be careful not to trap your fingers if the socket slips! Might be easier with someone helping, but I managed to get the belt back on on my own.

Job done! Pat yourself on the back for saving almost ÂŁ100! :dj1

A few pics, but probably not much use as access is a little cramped so I couldn't get a decent picture.
 

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#41 ·
nice man, its my job for the weekend so thanks for the tips!!!! when a belt start to make noise its extra annoying.
on the downside i plan to replace all 4 with genuine ones (because japan belts, Mitsuboshi used by nissan)
managed almost 75,000 miles with this set!
 
#43 ·
Jamez79 said:
I do around 30 miles a day commute and running around in between. So far so good. I am checking it every day just to make sure for peace of mind. It all looks lined up correctly and nothing is running g out of true, so fingers crossed.
Keep your eye on it as the new belt will put extra strain on the tensioner and it can slide off and run into the pas belt then before you know it it's snapped and took out other stuff.
 
#46 ·
If you pop the belt off, you can spin the pulley wheel and feel if the bearing is knackered. If it's not silky smooth then it's duff. Mine had some lateral play in it too.

The difference to the engine noise is amazing. I know these are a bit agricultural, but after getting used to the whining noise, it's like listening to a petrol engine for me at the moment. It's nice while it lasts. I'll soon get used to its sound again and back to thinking it's a noisy diesel.
 
#47 ·
I've just had a lightbulb moment, sat waiting for my daughter in the car tonight at the sport centre for 30 mins. ignition on but no fans running, only the radio at low volume and I had a cold sweat moment when the battery was too flat to start after 3 attempts. phoned the father in law for jump lead support and 2 minitues later the battery found enough amos/volts to fire her up.

this could be a sign of the alternator pulley, especially the simultaneous lack of whine. Definitely going to pull the belt off tomorrow for a check of both pulleys. thing is, I've seen enough of the engine bay over the last few months to last a lifetime, and cant be ***** any more. Just to compound things I'm convinced my clutch isn't far away either!