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best to unblank it and see then if thats the only thing you did to your truck, i bet the code will go away
i had a blank on mine and i didnt see any differance at all, i even think i had worse perfomance, so i unblanked it for my annual test (like Mot) and never bothered with it
the oils are supposed to keep things clean anyway
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
stumpy69 said:
Where in Grampian are you got an obd which I know works which could save the wait if you are close by.
I'm in insch, but commute to aberdeen harbour daily, so any north, north west suburb is easy for me.

Just googled high egt's, and a smokey diesel = high exhaust gas temp. Better take it easy for a bit.

Just to clarify, I can go up a hill and keep the throttle balanced in between tons of smoke and keeping momentum with very very minor acceleration. If I prolong the smoke ( nobody for 2 miles behind) I force limp mode.

I'm getting genuine high egt's in my limited opinion. High egt's can be caused by lots of things. Could have a dodgy injector, could be burned or sticking valves, could even be valve timing, which leads to the question, is the euro5 affected with this timing chain issue?

Al
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Stelianos said:
best to unblank it and see then if thats the only thing you did to your truck, i bet the code will go away
i had a blank on mine and i didnt see any differance at all, i even think i had worse perfomance, so i unblanked it for my annual test (like Mot) and never bothered with it
the oils are supposed to keep things clean anyway
Not quite as simple as that, the symptoms are the same, but blanking the egr made no improvement. Granted, I've only had a limp mode since blanking, but the car performing much the same. it takes two minutes to remove, so will probably whip it out.
 
I would agree until the actual cause of this episode is tied down that the EGR blank should be removed.

With regards to the blank, there is no guarantee that it will give any kind of performance boost. What it does do, is stop the burnt carbon and oil deposits being drawn back through the intake causing undue wear and tear on the engine internals. The EGR valve itself has been known to fail causing a total breakdown. Some newer models have a exhaust gas sensor fitted on the EGR valve and if a blank is fitted will cause the EML to light and store a fault code, generally without any effect on performance.

I doubt very much if the EGR blank is causing this present problem. It would be brilliant if its removal sorted the problem but I doubt it. :dunno
 
in older posts you have said you had the egr replaced under warranty right? did the dealers tell you why the last one failed?
otherwise just remove the blank reset the ecu and see how it goes, the euro 5 reports of the blank had problems mostly when fitting the blank, others have also said you shouldnt since it helps the dpf recycle
anyway gl with the fix
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
Funny enough i've been thinking about this. Any googling of high gas temps normally point back to EGR's, and in newer systems (euro5 is electric actuator etc etc) blanking the EGR might make the ECU compensate boost/fuelling and all sorts of other issues.

If say for example my EGR valve has failed closed (very common on these, and i've already had one replaced) it might have the same effect as blanking, and triggers the low power, black smoke and high gas temps.

Dealer didnt say why it was replaced, but i put i put it in because it was a bit smokey, albeit had plenty enough power at that time.

My Main problem is that all the suspect components from now on run into hundreds of pounds, so swap and hope is out of the question. to be honest i'm looking at chopping the POS in for something else! As long as it keeps driving for a couple of weeks it's fine.

Trouble is, the turbo isnt gone but feeling a bit worn. It's in the "clutch zone" and the timing chains seems to be a worry also. At 80k it's turning into a money pit, and even if i fix it, what's next??
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
blank removed, ecu reset, tripped on high gas, same time, same place :(

back to the drawing board. its sooooo annoying, it actually drives better at cruising, low rpm than its ever done, and the annoying injector rattle has gone. Engine sounds great and ticks over like a sowing machine. just don't try and accelerate hard from low or high speed. took the egr valve off and looks like it's cycling, and you can hear it operating when you shut down the engine. it's a 5wire sensor, and without a manual I risked blowing up the potentiometer. oh for a vacuum system! There is actually a vacuum system of sorts, but all piping seems good and everything attached is holding a vacuum and or operating when the engine is running. The vacuum system stops short under the engine cover and terminated into solenoid valves.

My money is on bad injector(s) or the turdbo. just have to get by until my obd reader turns up.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
Hi, finally got a working dongle.

Dissapointed to see much of the sensor info isn't available. Will setup a meaningful screen/display best i can. Did manage a quick 5 min play, and found two things . 1 inlet air temp seems unusually high. Even while moving after a couple of minutes, it doesn't go lower than 18 deg c. Dash is saying 12degrees. I also have a boost pressure of 1.5 bar (21 psi) with the foot to floor, isn't this unusually high?

Anybody got any ideas suggested parameters that are available in order to make reasonably valuable assessment?
 
I have a few extra apps that help read the ECU, listed here; viewtopic.php?f=44&t=103434&p=1024418&hilit=torque#p1024418

My 07 Euro4 boosts in the region of 21 psi at full chat and my fuel pressure is up around 2,000 psi. Intake temperature stays pretty close to the ambient temperature. So your MAF might need a clean.

I assume you have no fault codes showing now?
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
Do any of these aps liberate the egt readings? Fuel rail pressure was showing in kpa and didn't recall the reading. Will have a play with units etc. should rail pressure be uniform throughout or vary with load rpm?

Fault code 2478 still showing. I'm leaving it since it's booked in tommorrow to a highly recommended garage who do lots diagnostics on td's and are the only company in aberdeen who do common rail diesel injector testing and cleaning onsite. Not cheap, but fingers crossed.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
As for maf, ive cleaned it twice now, and it's always looked squeaky clean anyway. In my opinion if it's still out, it's u/s. Could this error be enough to create incorrect air mass enough to enrich the mix as far is it? I would have though that a higher temp reading would lean the mix more and not enrich it?

I do see the maf sensor flow. I guess there's too many variables to compare against a healthy engine?
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
minor update: garage found poor connection between the EGR temp sensor and got that side of things working. it was still smoking like a goodun' so injectors came out. They found one injector with a missing washer that has been blowing past. it's a bit crudded up so they can see if the excess heat has cracked it (common when the exhaust gas leaks past apparently).

When they phoned they asked who had had the injectors out recently since it has the washer missing. Well I know for a fact that the answer is nobody. If they have ever been out it would be before I got it (I bought at 18k) and around 35k I think it was when it went in for smoking last time when they replaced the EGR, so at the very least it was 40k miles ago ??!?!?!?

one new injector required probably and the other 3 still to be checked.

they still have to try a compression test on Monday also.

Al.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
one doofed injector, 3 with high leakage (in the post)

4 new injectors at 230+vat each.

ouch :(
 
Discussion starter · #35 ·
just to conclude, got the car back today. ÂŁ1500 notes lighter, but at tickover you can't hear the engine running, it has regained a significant diesel "growl" on acceleration and it cruising along (and up) with the lightest of pedal presses. it feels crisp and responsive if you know what I mean.

Cost a bomb, but definitely worth it. Testing, fault finding injectors, recoding etc etc, I just couldn't have done it myself anyway, and I doubt a backstreet garage would have resolved so quickly or had the proper equipment available. only 4-5 hours labour charge in total.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
the fault codes did kind of point in the right direction. it could have been two things: 1, a fault sensor showing false readings, or it was a genuine problem with high gas temp (over/incorrect fuelling) and protecting the engine/turbo as its designed to do. unfortunately it was the latter!

indeed, I'm out of warranty and cant find a replacement that doesn't mean spending more money, so going to invest in some of that oil in Costco, put the blank back in and keep it well serviced myself. 75k of eating its own **** is enough I think!

As much as I hate the thing I love it at the same time, and cant really do without it, I guess you've gathered that! (and thanks for you patience during this highly emotional period!)

Al
 
Well at least it's back
Sounds like a couple of issues that you would have struggled to single out by symptoms alone
Needed some high technology and knowledgeable mechanics
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
for the first time ever it's averaging lower than 30mpg. Also of note the second half of the throttle actually does something. it's apparent that thing hasn't been right since I've had it. Nissan looked at the smoking issue, and I took it back and wasn't convinced it was completely fixed, but it was improved. I've just put up with it and taken it as the norm.

The garage dropped in some fuel system cleaner/cetane booster and the thing is forking rapid! best 1.5k I've ever spent (on a car)

Moral of the story is to use your warranty as much as possible and trust you instinct.
 
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