Not my area of expertise, but there are some generics....

Did you fit new timing chain (duplex?) and gears? It may be stretched, and indeed may have skipped, as you seem sure that you lined the marks up properly the first time....

I assumed you did a serious clean of the oilways in the block, oil pump etc, given that they may be full of 'iron filings' coming from the damage you mentioned.

Also, may be worth changing the fuel filter and flushing through/re-priming - you may be getting water in the fuel.

I am not sure how to explain the "acrid smell" though, assuming it does not smell of diesel, normal exhaust and steam, or engine oil...

 

Hi freemansteve, Thank you for the reply...

The timing chain was a fairly recent aftermarket one and when under tension the tensioner piston was measured at 10mm which as per the manual, was well within tolerances, so I didn't change it...

Before I started the reassembly process, I catalogued all parts into sections and cleaned absolutely everything at each stage of the process. Before I started, everyone warned me to be completely 'clinical' as even a speck of alien material could destroy it all in no time. So I set up a clean area and a dirty area in the workshop and only transferred parts between the two areas once they were needed. As a starting point, the block was completely cleaned and blown through with an airline.

After reading all the threads I realised I hadn't changed the fuel filter, so I went to do that today. My filter removal tool is the wrong type though, so I have ordered one online today. However, the current fuel filter looks new outwardly... but you never know.... so change it I will, once I get the correct fitting tool.

I went to try and start it again today, but it was not having any of it... its a real head scratcher... its like it wants to fire but never quite gets there... initially on turning over, there is no smoke. Only when its trying to fire up, does the smoke appear... Could this mean that its not getting fuel, or its getting too much fuel? Could the timing still be out after so diligently lining everything up?

Not sure how to explain the smell.. other than acrid... I did coat everything in a good layer of assembly lubricant....as it was being rebuilt...could this be the source?

 

White acrid smoke is unburnt fuel (smells like a steam engine!)

 

Thanks Landmannnn, So lets presume its not burning the fuel... Could this mean that there is too much fuel being delivered? Is there a way to electronically control how much fuel the Injector pump delivers?

 

Hopefully a D22 expert will be along to guide you this.

 

I doubt it's simply too much fuel as such; an ECU reset is one thing everyone tries.
It does seem like the fuel is not igniting - are the glowplugs coming on? - I know these are not always needed but it may be very cold where you are!
How's compression? Can you test it?

 

Hi Fremansteve, Glowplugs are new, I replaced all of them as well as the injectors... I cleaned the rail that connects the glowplugs together as well as the electrical wire that connects them to the loom. However, I have not checked the relay for the glowplugs, I will test the relay tomorrow with a volt meter... I'm up in North Yorkshire and the temp is currently not that cold... 2 or 3 degrees....

As for the compression, I have replaced all the pistons and rings along with a rebore... when I installed the rings, I made sure the gaps were 120 degrees apart and not over the gudgeon pins.... before putting the cylinder head on, i turned the crankshaft several times and checked the cylinders and each one had a small vertical line of residual oil to indicate that the rings were correctly placed and sealing as they should....when I cranked it by hand via a socket on the crankshaft pulley to reset the timing, compression felt great and no obstructions (ie. Valves getting in the way),,, do you think its still worth doing a compression test?

Landmannnn... Thanks.. I'm sure with everyone on here, I'll be able to sort the issues....

 

I was only considering the possible implications of "I think I was about two or three teeth out on the inlet camshaft... " as you said....

I doubt this was enough to damage any valves though, and you say, you have corrected it, so maybe compression is not at issue - I was just thinking you need serious compression (well, the heat that comes from that) to get diesel to burn!

Long shot.: Is there any possible way that any of the electrical connections to the injectors can get mixed up so that diesel can get injected at the wrong time? What about crankshaft (et al) positions sensors, too?

The problem is intriguing...

 

So I’m by no means an expert, but if you went to Mechanics School 101 and asked the class “I have a diesel engine, fresh from a major rebuild, which is not firing and produces white smoke and a bad smell”, the class would read their textbooks and say “no compression”.

 

Exactly first port of call a compression test on all cylinders. Did you fit the correct head gasket? Have you checked valve timing and clearances? Are the injectors properly seated with new copper washers?

 

Good Morning All, Thankyou for the responses..


I replaced the Crankshaft sensor during the rebuild and all electrical connections that I removed were cleaned before reconnecting to anything.


The Head Gasket was from Bill Car and I think it was a ?VLK500?... I matched the one that was removed. When I placed the new injectors I also renewed the copper washers and seals. I checked the valve clearances as per the manual, If I remember correctly it was TDC then check so many and then turn the crankshaft and check the rest... These were spot on except three of them, but those were well within the written tolerances. Before the rebuild the car seemed to run fine, just had the knocking, so I presumed that the valves did not need removing, especially after it was tested as good... and visually they looked ok apart from the usual grime from a running engine.



Because it was my first rebuild of a diesel engine I was following the manual verbatim and what I didn't understand I called Bill Cars, who were exceptional and very patient with me.



OK then, my first port of call will be change the fuel filter once the tool arrives, then I get a compression test done and see where we go from there....

Thanks guys for your support, I will update the thread once these have been done....

 

Did you say that all the rings were lined up so that the small gap was all in the same place? That could be your trouble, they need to be offset from each other or they will just allow gas to escape into the sump and cause you even bigger trouble, we had to do a complete rebuild of mine and we set each ring about a quarter of a turn apart.

Mark

 

I think he said "I made sure the gaps were 120 degrees apart and not over the gudgeon pins.... "

 

Hi all, Firstly my apologies for not writing for a while,,, the car being outside, weather was an issue when i wanted to carry out any work on the car. I was also waiting for a my partners cousin who has a garage and a diagnostic machine.


So anyway lets update you all...


I did end up buying a diagnostic machine an iCarsoft one (I have the landrover diagnostic they make and its fantastic) but it could not connect to the ECU. It would only pickup the airbag system. I emailed iCarsoft and sent them some log files from the machine but did not get a reply.. I also asked them definitively if it was compatible but again no reply. So that was a dead end.


I have redone all the timing, both top and bottom, rechecked all the valve clearances and they are within tolerances.


I have spoken to the wonderful Bill Car guys and they think its the Injection Pump which is at fault.



After many weeks, my partners cousin arrived, we started the car with a spray of brake cleaner fluid and it ran lovely just lots of white smoke which he says was unburnt diesel. it ran for 10 minutes then just cut out and would not restart. He checked the Injector pipes and the engine is getting fuel, so he plugged his machine in and got the same result, it could not connect to the ecu, he tried all ways to connect but no joy. He advised I rotated the injection pump flange 360 degreees as it may be that causing fuel to be mistimed in its delivery. He would then have a think about the ecu issue. We checked all the fuses, NATS seems to be working fine, doors lock and unlock on the key (The button on the key was not working when I bought the vehicle) and the little light flashes as it should when its locked and stays off when the car is unlocked.



So I have now turned the Injection pump flange 360 degrees, redone all timing again and checked valve clearances again... TDC was confirmed by removing No1 Injector and using a thin rod, as I have done the Bill Car Oil tube Mod which means you cant just pull the bottom cover off without removing the whole sump.... Gave the battery an overnight charge and then gave it a try... Same issue does not start... it wants to, but just doesn't quite catch.



Obviously there is an ECU issue, but I was wondering if it could be EGR related... The EGR was already 'blanked off' when I bought the car.. There is a solid blanking plate on the exhaust side of the EGR piping and another plate but with two small holes in it at the intake side of the EGR valve. Is this correct? The solid plate is dry and crusty where the surface is inside the pipe and the one with the two holes in has an oily residue on it. Everytime I remove the front pipe for the EGR (To do the timing) I clean the plate with the holes in it as it has a thick oily residue. Could this point to another issue or should this be expected?
I have completed a few EGR blanks on Landrovers before which entails removing the whole thing and using plates but this is different so I have no idea as to what to expect.

A friend that sometimes gives me a hand is a Cummings Engineer and he thinks it is not a mechanical issue as it runs really nice when sprayed other than the smoke of course. he reckons its something electrical at fault...



What a marathon....

 

Normally if you blank the egr you just put a blank plate on one end. Sometimes you need to drill a small hole in the blank to stop error messages, but not on a 2005.

Oil in the intake is normal, it is just crankcase ventilation.

I think the problem is unlikely to be linked to the EGR, it might be worth removing the blanks to get it back to standard.

 

Thanks for the super quick reply Landmannnn... I only thought about the EGR as not starting and cutting out is a symptom of a dodgy EGR Valve...

I'll try anything to get this thing going... its getting rather frustrating to say the least after spending months and £2500 on new parts for the engine for it not to go... More than a few times I have wanted to take a sledge hammer to it... thats just down to my own inexperience though.
When I have it all sorted I am going to write a paper with plenty of pictures and post it on here so everyone else can perhaps avoid chasing non issues when doing a complete rebuild of the YD25...

What started out as a simple change the bottom end bearings on a truck I bought for £400, has turned out to be quite different. It has been way more than that..... And still dragging on..... There was clearly way more wrong with the truck than I thought.

 

Have just spoken to my partners cousin and he thinks it is one of the following:


1. Injectors
2. Injector Pump
3. ECU


So....


1. The injectors are new from Bill Car so I think I can put this to one side for now. But not impossible i guess new can be faulty too sometimes.
2. Injector pump, well it started ok considering the initial issues so this is still a strong contender although fuel is getting to the engine. When you loosen the injector pipes, fuel is getting there...
3. ECU - Cannot connect to this, so I think maybe I should start here. I have read the manual for this section and try as i can, its double dutch... electrics are certainly not my area...



What I have is a bog standard volt meter, no knowledge of electrics and no cash left, I spent it all on the engine parts . Bearing this in mind, can someone help with some very basic clear instructions as to what I can do to test the ecu?



Fingers crossed.....

 

Outside of my expertise...but I think the D22 isn't OBD2 compliant, so the readers won't work. There are some posts on this forum if you have a search.

 

HI Landmannnn, I am probably clutching at straws here...


Lets say we know the EGR is blanked off, however, the EGR itself is stuck open.
There is a harness connector on the EGR, will this then tell the ECU it is stuck open? Resulting in its no start issue?



Would it harm any fault finding if I was to disconnect the connector? or am i clutching at straws... and talking rubbish....

 

Probably!

I don't think the is a substitute for working through the situation in a step by step methodical manner, it may take a while but you will be unlikely to find the problem otherwise.

 

After a busy weekend we have a little progress... or at least a step in the right direction.



On Saturday we had someone have a look at the ecm and he perhaps thought that the ecm had 'D rated' itself, some sort of limp mode.

On Sunday we put it on a trailer and took it to a garage and got the codes read...



We managed to get connected to the ecm and got the codes 72 and 77.

72 being TDC timing and the 77 being injection timing.
Looking through the nissan manual I am presuming these codes translate to 0702 and 0707 which read as similar wording to what the garage guys said on Sunday.


So this weeks job is running through the diagnostic procedure as laid out by nissan in the workshop manual. Both mention checking the connections and wiring or ultimately replacing the pump itself.


If anyone has had these codes before and any experience correcting them it would be great to hear from you....


Cheers

 

Just a brain storming thought. Is the crank / tdc sensor OK?


Cheers,
Mark

 

The fault code 77 can be cause by air in a fuel system.

 

Hi All, Firstly I know the white smoke issue has been covered as I have read the threads but please bear with me... This is my first time working on a diesel engine or anything japanese... My learning curve has been almost vertical:surprise:



The vehicle in question is my recently purchased 2005 navara with the YD25 Engine.


I bought it thinking the bottom end bearings needed replacing and would do the job myself.


So once the engine was out, the bottom end bearings and crankshaft were great, so I took the head off and discovered that No4 piston and bore were beyond serviceable in a big way along with No1 Injector also not working.


Completely stripped the engine and had the block rebored to 0.50 oversize. The head was checked and pressure tested and these were fine. Crankshaft was tested and this was also good.


I then discovered that ALL the small end bearings had been chipped off in various places.


So now the rebuild... New Pistons and rings, new conrods with the ARP Bolts, new bottom end bearings and thrust washers, complete engine rebuild gasket set with the Bill Car Oil Tube Mod, new Head bolts, New injectors etc etc....


Whilst rebuilding the engine I followed the Nissan Workshop Manual and the hints and tips from this forum along with telephone advice from the excellent Bill Car experts who I have to say, are second to none in my opinion.


Now the engine is in the vehicle, at first it would only run on three cylinders and hard to start... this was remedied by resetting the timing chains both top and bottom. As per the manual, I reset the camshafts marks in line with the two dots on the casing once the fuel pump was locked off. I think I was about two or three teeth out on the inlet camshaft... God only knows how that happened... Tried to start it but then the battery gave up... so have put in a new 860cca battery.


Now it starts after a couple of tries and runs sweet other than a constant deluge of whitish smoke with a rather acrid smell. After the engine gets up to temperature the smoke continues but lessens slightly. Turn off the engine and then go to restart it... and it refuses to start again. The EML Light is also on but I do not have access to a diagnostic machine.



I have read the threads regarding the white smoke issue but if I understand them correctly (I may not), I think I have ticked most of the boxes which could cause the issue...



Is the Injector pump trying to push too much fuel? There is an arrow type looking ?adjuster? on the side of the pump, can I adjust this? Or is it something completely different and I'm talking rubbish?


Or am I missing something fundamental as I do not know enough about diesel engines?


Any help would be greatly appreciated...

 

Welcome to the forum.

Correct that white smoke with an acrid smell is too much fuel being squirted into the engine. (White smoke can also be water getting into the combustion chamber but you don't get the smell)

By 2005 the control of the amount of fuel being injected was electronically controlled, so unlike many 90's vehicles there is no adjustment on the pump to change the amount of fuel being injected.

The Navara D22 is not OBD compliant so a code reader will not be much help. So I would suggest you read the fault code. here is an explanation on how to do it.

How to get DTC whitout a code reader on D22

Yes, there is a simple way on those D22. Either you you make a wireharness on the OBD contact over 2 pins or turn a nut on the ECU on. Then the MIL light will twinkle the codes in intervall if there is any ones. (But translate the numbers, for example 74, you need information, i dont have, at...

www.nissan-navara.net

Alternatively there are several YouTube videos out there such as this one