[hornet1990]

Hi

I appear to have an unhappy Navara and I'm not sure exactly what's wrong...

Up until recently she's been fine. She did a few months ago pick up a slight vibration around the 1700rpm mark which went with either a full tank of fuel or as you go through ~1850rpm but didn't think it much to worry about. The last week or two I have occasionally noticed a slightly worse vibration you can feel through all the pedals and the bulkhead, but it too isn't always there and seemed to come and go, more so when cold.

Today however I'm accelerating away from a roundabout when in third I felt a very slight lurch and then the pedal vibration that was there disappeared. No other problems on a couple of trips until I came to come home from our field. It suddenly took about 4 to 5 times longer turning over for her to start, and then when I tried to accelerate from a standstill she kept lurching all through the rev range through 1st and 2nd, but seemed fine after 3rd and after that initial draw off was generally ok drawing off at junctions etc.

When I got home I tried running her up and down the drive and she seemed ok in 1st/2nd.

Just tried starting her from cold and again it took the same longer turning over until she suddenly caught, with a lot of belt slipping noise (which I don't normally get) but it's dark and I can't see much. Once started she ticked over ok but still with a lot of belt noise.. but no warning lights or anything like that.

Any ideas? Is this just a belt (tension?) problem, or is my clutch on its way out? Never had one go on me so I don't know what the signs are.

I had the timing chain mod done by Billcar back at the last service (April), so could see about getting her to them again but this close to xmas it's probably not likely to happen...

Any advice greatly appreciated!

Thanks
Darren

 

[lookskyward1]

How many miles has your truck recorded?

There are some confusing symptoms there and not necessarily related.

I see why you're leaning towards a failing clutch/flywheel. The dual mass flywheel if failing can cause running issues, vibration and sloppy drive. Obviously not something you want to rush into swapping straight off.

It might be worth investigating other (cheaper) options first. Remove the front propshaft and take it for a test drive to see if the vibration goes away. If it does solve the vibration issue it's probably nothing worse than a worn Universal Joint (UJ) a pretty simple and cheap fix.

As for the poor starting, you'll not go wrong following this guide: http://www.nissan-navara.net/27-tec...7-technical-assistance-d40/30629-how-investigate-fix-engine-running-issues.html

The lurch is a bit more difficult to diagnose, was this related to the engine running or a sloppy driveline? If it's driveline related it could be the clutch slipping (due to wear or contamination) or the flywheel slopping about. As previously stated not something you want to jump into changing but if you do we have an excellent pictorial guide. You'll need to consider whether you want a standard replacement clutch and flywheel or an upgrade solid flywheel conversion kit.

 

[chris vince]

Do you definitely mean mechanical vibration, or are you really describing a misfire?
Sounds possibly a little like air in the fuel to me, especially the protracted turning over to start up.

 

[hornet1990]

Do you definitely mean mechanical vibration, or are you really describing a misfire?
Sounds possibly a little like air in the fuel to me, especially the protracted turning over to start up.

Don't think it is a misfire but I suppose that could be possible. If it is air then is it a case of bleeding it? Funny how it just started yesterday after having started perfectly well several times in the morning...

Thanks, Darren

 

[hornet1990]

How many miles has your truck recorded?

There are some confusing symptoms there and not necessarily related.

I see why you're leaning towards a failing clutch/flywheel. The dual mass flywheel if failing can cause running issues, vibration and sloppy drive. Obviously not something you want to rush into swapping straight off.

It might be worth investigating other (cheaper) options first. Remove the front propshaft and take it for a test drive to see if the vibration goes away. If it does solve the vibration issue it's probably nothing worse than a worn Universal Joint (UJ) a pretty simple and cheap fix.

As for the poor starting, you'll not go wrong following this guide: link

The lurch is a bit more difficult to diagnose, was this related to the engine running or a sloppy driveline? If it's driveline related it could be the clutch slipping (due to wear or contamination) or the flywheel slopping about. As previously stated not something you want to jump into changing but if you do we have an excellent pictorial guide. You'll need to consider whether you want a standard replacement clutch and flywheel or an upgrade solid flywheel conversion kit.

Thanks, she's done just over 77k. Does about 10 miles a day on average - I even go out of my way to work just so she can get warmed up properly!

But yes, thought I'd mention everything just in case something was related. Another thing I thought of is that usually when turning off I'd get a little judder, but every now and again a bigger judder. This last fortnight has been mostly big judders...

The lurch puzzles me because it only happened on the road - from the first delayed start I drove down the track (slowly and in first) to the road and nothing seemed unusual, it was only when on the road and driving off that it did it.

I guess I need to break this down and look at each issue in turn. I'll go out and have a look at the starting issue following what you linked and report back any findings.

Thanks, Darren

 

[Co1]

Air in fuel sound like a good option to look at. I had it on a d22 a while back when I kept losing prime when it was off. For the life of me I can't remember what I did about it, but I seem to recall fitting a new fuel filter housing as the manual primer was on top. Got one second hand from a scrapper for not a lot. Would be a cheap place to start.

 

[hornet1990]

Air in fuel sound like a good option to look at. I had it on a d22 a while back when I kept losing prime when it was off. For the life of me I can't remember what I did about it, but I seem to recall fitting a new fuel filter housing as the manual primer was on top. Got one second hand from a scrapper for not a lot. Would be a cheap place to start.

That's what it looks like... I first checked the ECU and got 4 zeroes so that's good. Then check and cleaned a bit of **** out of the air filter. Looked at the MAF and it looks dirty so I'll need to get some cleaner for it.

Then looked at the fuel filter and gave the priming pump a squeeze, to be met with air, and diesel on my hand. Looks like the pump has split at the rear where it didn't seem like it had been put back into the clip properly. So need to get me a new one... what's the procedure for bleeding the filter once I've replaced it?

Thanks, Darren

 

[lookskyward1]

Once you have fitted your new filter, just pump the primer bulb until it firms up. It does help to have someone start the engine on the starter while you continue to pump the primer a few times to ensure a constant flow of fuel.

This might help: http://www.nissan-navara.net/45-d40-technical-library/37561-d40-cannister-fuel-filter.html

 

[hornet1990]

Once you have fitted your new filter, just pump the primer bulb until it firms up. It does help to have someone start the engine on the starter while you continue to pump the primer a few times to ensure a constant flow of fuel.

This might help: http://www.nissan-navara.net/45-d40-technical-library/37561-d40-cannister-fuel-filter.html

Thanks. Dunno why I always think things are more complicated on my truck than on my tractor where I do the servicing myself!

Sod's law though the only pump I could get locally today is too small for the hoses, so I'll have to go to the dealership tomorrow and get the right pump. I'll leave the filter for now as it's getting close to service time anyway and they'll do that.

 

[hornet1990]

Thanks. Dunno why I always think things are more complicated on my truck than on my tractor where I do the servicing myself!

Sod's law though the only pump I could get locally today is too small for the hoses, so I'll have to go to the dealership tomorrow and get the right pump. I'll leave the filter for now as it's getting close to service time anyway and they'll do that.

Ok, so I'm happy to report that I've fitted the new primer pump (£55 from the stealership) but for the life of me could not get it to fill and go hard. So tried turning it over and she started, then was able to squeeze the pump until it went hard. Left her idling/warming for 5 mins, then turned off. Restarted quickly as she used to so took her for a spin of the local roads, booting her where possible and all was good. Wasn't really on the lookout for vibrations but definitely did feel better.

Got back, stopped her then went to restart - she turned over and ran for a few seconds then stopped. Tried again and after a few attempts of this she would idle. Tried pumping the primer again and that was soft - is it supposed to go hard then stay that way? If you also put a bit of accelerator on it also seems to keep her going so it seems there is still some air in the system somewhere. Will this work its way out or do I need to bleed it somehow? Be interesting to see how she starts in the morning...

Thanks, Darren

 

[SlingerUK]

Worth checking and relatively cheap.

Might be totally off track with this but are you sure that your filter isn't clogged up and restricting the flow of fuel?
You did state that you were going to change it but then decided to leave it until the service was due.
If your filter is in poor condition then you will be pulling an excessive vacuum and drawing air into the system from any joint that isn't 110% tight.
This might explain the bulb not staying firm after running for a while as the fuel supply is less than the demand.

 

[hornet1990]

Might be totally off track with this but are you sure that your filter isn't clogged up and restricting the flow of fuel?
You did state that you were going to change it but then decided to leave it until the service was due.
If your filter is in poor condition then you will be pulling an excessive vacuum and drawing air into the system from any joint that isn't 110% tight.
This might explain the bulb not staying firm after running for a while as the fuel supply is less than the demand.

Thanks, but it seems there was a lot more going on! Got her into Billcar and it turns out the clutch was knackered (Dave couldn't believe I'd been driving it!) and also the suction control valve needed replacing as this was the cause of the rough running.

Along with the service she now feels completely different and running very well, so great job Billcar!

Thanks all that have offered help and advice here.
Darren