If the base plate is cracked would that leak oil out of the bell housing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

If the base plate is cracked would that leak oil out of the bell housing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No but a leaking TC seal would . The drive plate is the link between the crank and the tranny like the flywheel in a manual however much thinner

 

Mine has an ATF cooler, and yours might too.
With the rad out you will have lost fluid and may still have a shortage.... The refill procedure is very tricky from what I have read.
Worst case (we hope not) is driving on low ATF levels may have damaged something in the box, maybe a brake band?

 

Is there anyway of confirming the TC or plate is at fault apart from taking the engine out.

Wonder if I am wasting money taking to dealer would they no what’s wrong wonder if I just go ahead and take the engine out. Least that won’t cost me anything.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I guess just from just looking at a torque converter won’t be able to see if faulty.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

New video from underneath, does sound just as loud from underneath as it does from the engine bay.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/6xdrn7oja46c32b/IMG_1010.MOV?dl=0

 

Just had a break through. When I disconnect the vac pipe off the brake servo the noise stops. If I put my thumb over the end of the pipe the noise returns.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Marvellous! Whatever it is, it will likely be easier and cheaper than an AGB to sort out!
I guess you now suspect the vacuum pump's bearings?

 

I am well happy it’s not the gearbox. Didn’t think about pump bearings. First I think I will check is to see if I have connected the vac pipes correctly following the head change.
Does the auto gearbox have a vac pipe?
The vac valve has atm, out and vac written on the three outlets.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I don't see why the AGB has anything but oil pipes, no vac pipes....
If you search, the correct order for the vac pipes is somewhere on the forum - Landmannn is good at recalling the topics....

 

I checked the hose connections and confirmed they are all correct as far as I can tell.
Disconnecting the hose to the turbo and blocking the hose off the noise has gone. Reconnect and the hose and the noise is back.
Any ideas?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Does the noise come back if hose is connected to the turbo but clamped off?
If not, it may be turbo or actuator related....

 

Thanks for your reply. The noise is only there when the turbo vac hose is connected. With the hose off blocked or not no noise.
With the hose connected and the control valve plug pulled out no noise. Plug back in the noise is back.
I tried disconnecting both big hoses from the turbo and the noise is still there, so not a hose split.
I have recently fitted a new turbo because the shaft broke and pored oil through the hoses.
I can’t remember if this noise was there before the turbo went.
Does the vacuum start and stop the turbo?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

NO expert as I say but I believe that the vacuum on some models alters the turbo van geometry, with electric modulation...

 

Ok.

First check is for correct plumbing.

Vac hose comes across the back of the engine and connects to VAC on the boost control solenoid.
ATM on the boost control solenoid connects to the air inlet just after the air filter
OUT is connected to the boost actuator on the turbo.

What this system does is to vary the angle of the vanes on the turbo according to the electronic signal going to the boost control solenoid. Vacuum is used as the lever.

I suspect that something isn't right with the turbo if the pipes are right.
Take off the intake pipe to the turbo and have a look for debris.
Spin the turbo by finger, any roughness?
Actuate the variable vanes manually (you can do this by sucking on the pipe to the turbo) and try spinning the turbo again.

 

Just got my nav back from the dealer, they think the fault is a crack in the exhaust manifold.
Time to remove it and confirm. Will check the turbo when I get it off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

That could cause it too.

 

Well just removed the manifold. I can’t see any cracks.
Does look a bit sooty around the front port may of not been sealing correctly.
Wonder if the flexy exhaust connected to the turbo could be broken



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Putting a straight edge on the face of the manifold shows it’s not flat, which matches the sooty marks around the front and back ports.
Hopefully the replacement will fix the problem.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Finally fixed.
Fitted another manifold and gasket. Now runs with no noise at all.
I never would of guessed a leaking gasket could make such a screeching noise.
I just need to get my confidence back now with the truck it’s been a long spell of faults.

Thanks for all the help.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

It is very weird, but at least you are sorted.