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adz1282

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me what the standard boost pressure is on a standard 2005 D40?
Also what RPM should maximum boost be at?

I am getting a progressive boost build up and it reaches about 15psi at redline. Surely I should be reaching maximum boost about 2.5k rpm

Thanks
Adam
 
D40 nav runs a variable geomatory turbo. they work slightly differently to a normal turbo.

this graph shows how the boost progresses on a variable geo turbo. boost should spike and then settle down
 

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adz1282 said:
so there must be something wrong with mine then. any ideas?
Vacuum or boost leak. viens sticking on the turbo. or turbo on its way out.

whats the mileage on ur nav and how does it drive? is your boost gauge completey accuarate???

where havre you picked up the boost feed for ur boost gauge???

Edit.

just read your other post about your squeeking problem.

about the smoke etc..... could even be ERG valve sticking open also. but if your turbos not spooling correctly due to one of the above ive said them that will prob create smoke!! a nav should smoke with a dark plume slightly as the turbo spools and then reduce to a lightish haze...
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I can hear the turbo spool up and sounds fine.

I have taken the boost gauge off the boost pipe from the turbo (only tempory)and the gauge is an autometer one

the nav feels sluggish and does not seem to pick up too well.

my old l200 4 life felt quicker.
 
adz1282 said:
also could I put a manual boost controller between the electronic boost valve and the actuator to eliminate a weak actuator.

It has only done 51k but has been standing for a year

The actuator on the D40 is a Vacuum operated one! so to fit a manual boost contoller you would have to fill in the vent hole on the boost contoller. i have one thats unused as i bought it then got a remap, so if u want to go down that route i have one for sale.

this is a link to fitting a boost controller on a veriable geo turbo diesel http://users.bigpond.net.au/conody/Manu ... roller.htm

Ive fitted my boost gauge today. but ive not plumbed it into the boost pipe yet, getting that done tomorrow, replacing the boost pipe from turbo to intercooler with stainless steel with boost access for gauge. so i will get some boost reading and let you know.

whats condidtion is the air filter and MAF sensor like???

to test the actuator, removed the pipe that plugs onto the top of it. and fit a piece of vacuum/boost hose back on it and then suck on the pipe and watch for actuator movement, it if moves freely and in time with you sucking then it should be fine.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I may take you up on the boost controller if I have no luck.

I have just serviced it today, so new oil,fuel and air filter.

The thing is I don't know how fast it should be.

I didn't know these have vacuum actuators. So I should be able to suck to operated it. Not like a petrol when you can bench set the actuator to whatever boost pressure you require
 
adz1282 said:
I may take you up on the boost controller if I have no luck.

I have just serviced it today, so new oil,fuel and air filter.

The thing is I don't know how fast it should be.

I didn't know these have vacuum actuators. So I should be able to suck to operated it. Not like a petrol when you can bench set the actuator to whatever boost pressure you require
Dont adjust the actuator on these! deffo not like a petrol. as the actuator contolls the vains in the turbo, the vains also act as a wastegate so there is no "wastegate" as such. best way to adjust boost is manual contoller or remap! yes you can test them by giving a gud old suck on them!! :lol:

Standard power should be for yours 174bhp, 0-60 11ish seconds and top speed in the book is 105 which is bollox lol!!

even if you have a problem with the rear diff or clutch slipping etc.. thats gunna effect the way it drives and performs.

even try a diesel system cleaner, injector cleaner next time you fill up with fuel! injectors or anything could be not opperating as they should!!

HAVE YOU CHANGED THE FUEL FILTER?? AS THERE HAVE BEEN ISSUES WITH THESE CLOGGING UP!
 
adz1282 said:
Yep changed fuel filter.

I could really do with having a go in another to compare.

Would an OBD2 fault code reader pick up if the boost valve is faulty?
where are u based matey?

worth a go with the ODBII matey! double check all boost an Vac lines too, just to make sure theres no leaks etc...

heres the D40 service manual if you dont already have it http://www.nissan-navara.net/downloads/d40sm.zip

turbo section it under "EM" engine machanical give u a understanding of the set up etc...
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
I am in huddersfield,

Tommorrow i will double check all the boost\vacuum pipes and may even order an obd2 tool

I will let you know

thanks for all the advice

Navaras are new to me so appreciate it.
 
adz1282 said:
I am in huddersfield,

Tommorrow i will double check all the boost\vacuum pipes and may even order an obd2 tool

I will let you know

thanks for all the advice

Navaras are new to me so appreciate it.
not to far from me then. but driving mine wont help as mines remapped, pushing over 200 bhp.

no probs matey, thats what we are here for. im sure some of the Aussie guys will be on over the night to and help out to.
even try disconnecting the battery (both terminals) for at leats 30mins to reset ECU. the only other thing, cos the truck as been stood for 12 months like your said, is diesel pump etc... may need recalibrating and a ECU update which has to be done by the dreaded DEALER!!!
 
adz1282 said:
If the actuator works under vacumm should I be able to see it move when I start the engine?
I would think so matey, not summat ive tryed as its kinda hard to do on your own.

today, i undid the vac hose from my actuator and blanked it so the actuator wouldnt operate, so obviously the turbo wouldnt spool correcly, power was way down, felt very restricted and smoked like fook!!!
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Well I have just been out and looked a bit silly sucking off my new pick-up.......but I can move the actuator when I suck through the pipe. So I am ruling out sticking actuator or turbo vanes. I have had my wife reving the engine and it does not move, so it must be the boost solonoid or something related to it.
I am going to buy an OBD2 diagnostic tool off ebay and see what it brings up I will keep you informed.

BTW thanks for trying that with yours
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Ok I have just done a check according to the manual and I appear to be getting air continuity between a+b when there is a 12v supply and when not. So it would appear the soloniod valve is faulty. It does seem a bit odd though as this should mean I am always getting a vacuum to the actuator
I don't suppose you have a spare knocking about?
 
dont mean to hijack your thread adz1282, but

Andy said:
Ive fitted my boost gauge today. but ive not plumbed it into the boost pipe yet, getting that done tomorrow, replacing the boost pipe from turbo to intercooler with stainless steel with boost access for gauge. so i will get some boost reading and let you know.
Andy, pics of install? where can i get a replacement pipe for the turbo discharge with the fitting for the boost gauge? can an electronic boost gauge be used? if so, how to connect?
 
adz1282 said:
Ok I have just done a check according to the manual and I appear to be getting air continuity between a+b when there is a 12v supply and when not. So it would appear the soloniod valve is faulty. It does seem a bit odd though as this should mean I am always getting a vacuum to the actuator
I don't suppose you have a spare knocking about?
When I pulled the hose of the actuator with the engine running at idle I put my finger over the end and it was sucking so a vacuum was present.
 
Dont fit a boost controller.

Being a variable vane turbo the computer adjust the vanes to make the turbo spool faster.

The vanes could be stuck, seen it on ZD30DDTI's.

Could be the fuel rail pressure sensor playing up, is your vehicle chipped ?

Dave.
 
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