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Yd 25 engine refurbishment and removal

4.1K views 12 replies 3 participants last post by  Decayingade  
#1 ·
Good evening all,

Just a quick history of my headaches... Sorry to waffle on in advance.. :rolleyes:

So I recently bought a 2005 navara with a hole in the sump off evilbay...
It was cheap and I wanted it as a breaker.. Thrown rod I suspected. After recovering it and talking to the farmer owner I was told it was a good engine that suffered a "tractor with a bailing spike through the sump". ?!?! Anyway, I put a new radiator in it (holed), stuck a metal plate on the sump with some silicon and filled it with some oil.
A fresh battery and Turned the key for a "laugh" and it ran beautifully....

Anyway, after umming and ahhing I decided to chuck it in for an mot to see what else was needed. Shock horror, it passed with a few advisories.. Nothing major....
So my problem is this... I fixed all the odd bits and mot advisories and saved the biggest job till last.... The hole in the sump.
Now I'm aware of the blowing up problem so I checked engine block number.... Machined Smooth, The hole in the sump was big enough for me to remove a bearing shell off no 1 con rod. ACL STD bearings. So Rebuilt engine. ... ?
Looking good until I dropped the small sump pan off and found this small cranked pipe in the bottom
Image
...

So after speaking to Dave from Billcar, top man! He said it's an oil jet to oil the top of the piston and the engine has gotta come out... ?

As of today the engine is about to lift out, litterally its all disconnected ready to lift.... Bar separating from the gearbox..
I would just like advice on the following...
Which is easiest by myself with just an engine crane and no ramp...... ,, drop the front diff or pull the gearbox back? (to give enough room to pull the engine out)
When rebuilding a potentially Rebuilt engine what else should I replace/check.? .

Planning on so far
new bolts for the crank bearings.
New clutch kit, solid flywheel or dual mass?
Checking the timing chain or should I replace?
Egr blanking or removal?
Check all the bearing shells,
Replace the oil jets as needed
Front and rear crank seal if needed.
Check for scuffing on the pistons


Anything else??

Many thanks for your time/advice
Adrian
Also much thanks to Dave from Bill Car
 
#4 ·
Engine out, 10 hours by myself.
No ramp, just an engine crane.
A few things I learnt that arnt on the forums (maybe they are but couldn't find a definitive answer!)

Engine mounts need taking off completely. The two 14mm bolts in the chassis and the 17mm in the middle.

I left all the turbo on and split off the 3 bolts that hold the exhaust on to the turbo.

Take the small sump pan and oil strainer off before lifting over diff.

Drop the front diff down but no need to disconnect drive shafts. All I did was the 4 m10 bolts that hold the diff to the chassis (facing from front to back) then dropped it down enough to clear the sump.
Take front prop off. It's 10mins to save an hour of struggling.

Thanks to whoever took the engine out as they left all the difficult bellhousing bolt's out when they put it back in! ?????

And thanks to Nissan for designing such an awkward self destructing pig to remove!
Image

Will strip down and share my experience when I'm back from holiday!

Any advice or thoughts welcome...

Ade
 
#5 ·
So I had a chance to strip the sump off the engine today and to assess it a little closer.
Any advice on the following appreciated...
Image

Hard to see but a big ding on the crank where a bailing spike went through the sump... Worried about balance of the crankshaft...
Image

Bluing on the crank next to the main front shell.?? I haven't pulled the mains out and was hoping to leave them alone... Maybe wishful thinking....


Image

Also found these offending little bits of bronze when I took the clutch apart. Assuming there should be a bronze Bush in the crank but this seems to be all that's left of it. Whoever did the last engine rebuild, put the old clutch back in I'm assuming as it's still a nissan branded one and worn down to the rivets. Is the general consensus that exedy are the best kits to go for??

And finally the reason for engine removal, access to the missing spray jet that oils the top of the piston...
Image

Snapped off in number one cylinder. Anyone know the correct terminology for one of these?

Is this engine worth saving.?
I'm gonna spend more on the engine than I bought the truck for ?...
And last how, if possible can I tell the difference between ARP bolts and nissan bolts...? Heads on the con rods are 14mm flat 6sided nuts if that helps...

As always thanks for any advice...

Ade
 
#8 ·
For anyone interested, I've taken a chance and Rebuilt said damaged engine.
Checked all big ends and mains, look good. New clutch kit, arp bolts on big ends and got a friend to weld up the sump pan..
Image


Slipped the motor back in tonight. That was such an easy job to put back in. No problem at all...... ??

Will plumb up later tonight, blank off egr, can't say I've ever seen as much crud in the inlet manifold.
Anyone got any clever idea for cleaning out the intercooler??!?

We shall see if it survives...
 
#11 ·
So, sorry, been hectic with work. Done a couple of thousand miles now and running sweet as a nut..... Result ?

All I have to do now is address all the other issues ?.

I'll put some pictures up once I'm happy with it.
Planning on a respray, a few new panels and a new interior, ladder racks need refurbing, wading kit for wet jobs like this....
Image


. But that's aaanother story..

Also I discovered the downside of Led lights.... Throws the ecu lights up on the dash.... And the brakes make me sea sick! Not sure what's going on but as I slow down just before stopping, I feel a back and forth rocking motion...stops fine straight and true. Any ideas?