big end bearing change.

wozizname · Nov 11, 2009

colin41 said:
Question.

these parts numberes on here. Are they for all YD25 Engines, are sizes all the same?
I.E the engline is a job lot just put in over the range of D22s

Mine is a 25DTi on an 04 Plate.

Silly question I know. but im getting the parts next week and just want to make sure.

Ok mate, she's a YD25

so yup you're up for the 'mod'.
All the sizes are 'as standard' if the motor is original.
Order the parts as listed on here and get it done asap IMHO as at the 60-70k seems to be the time our motors start to 'tick' :roll:
BTW keep an eye on NeilF's posting as this could save you a hell of a lot of time :!: if the theory works.
:cheers2: Woz

NeilF · Nov 13, 2009

Hi,

I've now got the bearings and a Billcar 'oil seal'. I've been in my mates bodyshop all week working on my wifes Audi, but should have time to get started on the Navara in the morning. I'll be sure to take plenty of pics and if it's viable and works I'll make up a jig for drilling pilot holes in the bellhousing which can be passed on to anyone who needs it.

Cheers

Neil

mowerman · Nov 13, 2009

Nice one mate! :clappy:

wozizname · Nov 13, 2009

Top man Neil :salute:
Hope the job goes smoothly and the results rewarding :thumbleft:

smudger91 · Nov 14, 2009

Hi
Thanks to you all regarding this thread. I have just spent a couple of days doing the bolts and ends after purchasing an 04 56k Navara last weekend. The bearing had no signs of ware and the engine seems fine. Total cost under £150, piece of mind, Priceless.
Again thanks.
Smudger91

NeilF · Nov 14, 2009

Hi,

got some time to start the work this afternoon.

Unfortunately I don't think drilling the bellhousing will work, you would need to drill through the adapter plate, the offside sump bolt is in line with one of the gearbox mounting bolts and it also looks like you would end up drilling into the timing wheel? attached to the flywheel.

Pics as follows :

Here's what I found with the bearings, etc :

Bearing 1

Bearing 3

Bearing 4

Crank Journal 3

and the really nice bit :shock:

Bearing 2

Crank Journal 2

Rod 2

Oops.... yes that is what's left of the upper bearing on number 2.... Anyone got a good spare crank and rod?

Cheers

Neil

wozizname · Nov 14, 2009

smudger91 said:
Hi
Thanks to you all regarding this thread. I have just spent a couple of days doing the bolts and ends after purchasing an 04 56k Navara last weekend. The bearing had no signs of ware and the engine seems fine. Total cost under £150, piece of mind, Priceless.
Again thanks.
Smudger91

Well that's great news for you smudger91 :thumbleft:
Glad it's given you the piece of mind and re-instated your confidence in your truck

What a tale of two stories though when you read poor NeilF's post after yours

Best £150 you've ever spent I reckon, don't you :!: :!:

Woz

wozizname · Nov 14, 2009

Hi Neil
Ouch :!: that's a nasty find mate

One consolation is that it didn't exit the block as the costs would have gone sky-wards. I guess the crank won't take a grind then.
Unusual to see no2 the culprit. Normally no3 is the first to go then no4 following close behind.

Thanks for posting so quickly your findings :salute:
So the bell housing hole's theory isn't 'do-able' even if the CPS is placed in a 'safe' position :?: can the holes be placed in a position to miss the plate and gain access via a flexible 1/4 drive with socket :?: Just a few ideas, thats all
Anyways thanks again, keep us posted and good luck with the repairs
:cheers2: Woz

NeilF · Nov 14, 2009

Hi Woz,

I don't think the bellhousing drilling is going to be practical, just obscured by the flywheel, etc. I'll have another look and measure accurately but doubt it'll be good news.

The crank is scored fairly badly (deeply) on no 2, 3 would probably just polish out. I'm going to pull the crank and have a better look but gut feeling from looking/touching is it's trash. The rod is salvageable but not worth bothering with if I can get a replacement.

I'm considering options at the moment as to whether to repair the engine or put something else in instead.

On a positive note I didn't find the job too bad at all, it only rated a 1 on the swear word scale and that was only when I found the top offside gearbox bolt was too long to come out with a 1/2" drive socket and flexi attached to it...

Cheers

Neil

wozizname · Nov 14, 2009

Neil, thanks for all the info and 'time out' during your repairs for this extra investigation :thumbright:
You have more patience than me then, as my complete swear word collection was used up due to most of the bolts being fookin tight :lol:
Another lump

Hmm, there's a few bashed up D40's out there, told the block is the same as the D22 but cannot confirm

but worth an inquiry.
:cheers2: Woz

jackal · Nov 15, 2009

I have been reading your post on the Nissan navara forum on the issue of the D-22 have defective connecting rod bolts.

Allow me to introduce myself. I am from Trinidad in the West Indies or the Caribbean which ever you prefer.

I own a D-22, hear in Trinidad we have a 4X2 (having the 4X4 stance) version of the 4X4. The 4X2 carries the YD-25 engine and the 4X4 carries the ZD-30.

Over the past months I have been getting a knocking noise when the engine first starts in the morning. After a minute or so the noise goes away, never to be heard of again for the rest of the day until next morning (12 hours downtime).

Your posting have been very informative on the possible cause and I am looking a changing the rod bolts in the next few weeks.

I do have a few questions and I would appreciate any assistance you can give.

First off, the part number for the rod bolts is the same as that of the SR-20 engine, is this so??? In other words, the SR bolts will work??
Do you have the part # for the bearing shell (standard size)??

Hear in Trinidad, it is quite difficult to get replacement parts for vehicle other than the agent, and you are faced with high prices, some are 4 times what you would pay for after market.

Involute Curve · Nov 15, 2009

Neil, perhaps your number 2 crank pin can be salvaged by metal spraying, this technique can often be used in this kind of situation, for those not familiar with this, the offending crank pin is ground back then sprayed with metal from a spray gun which utilises Oxy Acetylene to heat a metal powder this is used to build up the crank pin, it is then ground back to match the others, I have had this done in the past, and it wasn't as expensive as you would think, and it worked, in fact the built up pin was indistinguishable from the others, the area which must be carefully checked is the radii in the crank pin corner and that any and all debris is flushed out correctly from the oil way's.

This may be your best option cranks being difficult to come by for D22's

I perhaps should add that when I had this done it wasn't for a Navara it was on a Landrover motor years ago.

Shaun

NeilF · Nov 15, 2009

Hi Shaun,

thanks for the advice, I'll certainly look into it.

If I'm lucky the crank may be salvageable with a grind, initial impressions weren't good but when I look at it again I should have a more objective outlook, not a slightly pee'd off one that it wasn't going to be as straightforward as I'd hoped.

Looking back at the pictures I think that the rod should probably be replaced as the score is right across the oilway.

Cheers

Neil

wozizname · Nov 15, 2009

Hi Neil
Just saw this thread again and with your crank damage, I thought it worth informing you about if you may have missed it
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6662
woz

wozizname · Nov 15, 2009

jackal, hi mate and welcome to the forum :thumbleft:
I'm sure most of the YD25 problems have only been with UK Spec'd D22's with little or no feedback on other European YD25's other than from this forum. I have no other information to confirm YD25 failures world wide. Maybe NissanTechy on here may have more answers to the YD25 engine failures around the world :?:
One thing that seems to be common to all YD25's is the drive belts 'clattering' from cold start up. This can be diagnosed by pouring water on these belts whilst the noise is there. If it disappears, then new drive belts are required. You can adjust them or lubricate them but the noise will come back.
I hope new belts will cure you're problems :thumbright:
Woz (in a very wet UK)

diggerman · Nov 16, 2009

wozizname said:
jackal, hi mate and welcome to the forum :thumbleft:
I'm sure most of the YD25 problems have only been with UK Spec'd D22's with little or no feedback on other European YD25's other than from this forum. I have no other information to confirm YD25 failures world wide. Maybe NissanTechy on here may have more answers to the YD25 engine failures around the world :?:
One thing that seems to be common to all YD25's is the drive belts 'clattering' from cold start up. This can be diagnosed by pouring water on these belts whilst the noise is there. If it disappears, then new drive belts are required. You can adjust them or lubricate them but the noise will come back.
I hope new belts will cure you're problems :thumbright:
Woz (in a very wet UK)

Hi, was speaking to bearing supplier last Friday,he said they sent an awful lot of d22 stuff to NORWAY,so the engine problem is not just in the UK

jackal · Nov 16, 2009

wozizname said:
jackal, hi mate and welcome to the forum :thumbleft:
I'm sure most of the YD25 problems have only been with UK Spec'd D22's with little or no feedback on other European YD25's other than from this forum. I have no other information to confirm YD25 failures world wide. Maybe NissanTechy on here may have more answers to the YD25 engine failures around the world :?:
One thing that seems to be common to all YD25's is the drive belts 'clattering' from cold start up. This can be diagnosed by pouring water on these belts whilst the noise is there. If it disappears, then new drive belts are required. You can adjust them or lubricate them but the noise will come back.
I hope new belts will cure you're problems :thumbright:
Woz (in a very wet UK)

Dude.........

Tomorow morning I am going to pour water on them belts before I start the engine, if this is the problem, then I would have saved a bundle of cash on the possable repair.

Thanks for hinting to this potential possablity.

diggerman · Nov 16, 2009

Worth checking timing chain tensioner too, might rattle a bit until oil pressure gets up :?:

jackal said:
wozizname said:

jackal, hi mate and welcome to the forum :thumbleft:
I'm sure most of the YD25 problems have only been with UK Spec'd D22's with little or no feedback on other European YD25's other than from this forum. I have no other information to confirm YD25 failures world wide. Maybe NissanTechy on here may have more answers to the YD25 engine failures around the world :?:
One thing that seems to be common to all YD25's is the drive belts 'clattering' from cold start up. This can be diagnosed by pouring water on these belts whilst the noise is there. If it disappears, then new drive belts are required. You can adjust them or lubricate them but the noise will come back.
I hope new belts will cure you're problems :thumbright:
Woz (in a very wet UK)

Click to expand...

Dude.........

Tomorow morning I am going to pour water on them belts before I start the engine, if this is the problem, then I would have saved a bundle of cash on the possable repair.

Thanks for hinting to this potential possablity.

jackal · Nov 16, 2009

wozizname, I started the motor this morning and as soon as I poured water on the belts the noise disappear. I will do it again for consistency tomorrow.

Dude, I can’t thank you enough. You saved me money and given me peace of mind.

Now to go brag on my fellow D-22 owners.

NeilF · Nov 16, 2009

Hi Woz,

wozizname said:
Hi Neil
Just saw this thread again and with your crank damage, I thought it worth informing you about if you may have missed it
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=6662
woz

thanks, I had missed it so info worth knowing.

Not sure I fancy going 1mm or more on a regrind, will have to have a think about it.

Thanks for all you input, knowledge and advice.

Neil

big end bearing change.

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