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Why have towbars been made MOT testable?
All European Union member states are required to have a periodic inspection regime in place for the majority of vehicle types. For private vehicles used in Great Britain, this requirement is met by the MOT test. It is mandatory for such tests to include items prescribed in the legislation, which includes towbars, as they are considered essential for road safety.
Will the check apply to all towbars?
The test will apply to any type of towbar fitted to the rear of any vehicle in Classes 3, 4, 5, & 7. It does not include towbars fitted to motorcycles as they are not covered by this legislation. Nor does it include the emergency towing eye which is fitted to the majority of modern vehicles.

copied from vospas site, might help.


If the tow ball is not fitted at the time of test, only the security of attachment of the towbar brackets and the condition of the vehicle structure will be assessed.

However, where a towbar has been deliberately rendered unfit for further use, so that the simple refitting of a ball, pin or eye is no longer possible, any remaining components will no longer be considered as a towbar for the purpose of the test.
Will fixed covers or panels be removed?
No covers or panels will be removed to facilitate the inspection of any components, including tow ball covers. Components hidden behind bumper bars for instance, will be tested as far as is practicable. However, it may be necessary to inspect some components from inside the luggage compartment, including lifting of loose fitting mats or carpet.
Are Type Approval markings included in the check?
There is no requirement for the tester to check for Type Approval markings and the towbar will not be failed if they are not present.
Are the towing electrics included in the test?
The electrical wiring and socket are not part of the test. If there is an obvious fault the tester will simply advise the vehicle presenter.
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
well ive been told by an mot man thats its coming in that there got to test the wireing all works as it should if theres a tow baw/ law fitted, il have to have another word with him wehn i see him and get back to you, i know he said if theres no ball / jaw fitted then they dont have to test the socket at all,
 
with respect, you do not have to get back to him, its categorically not an MOT item (the wiring or socket) thats why i copied and pasted the vosa page, so you didnt have to take my word for it, sounds like your man does not know if his ar@e is drilled, bored or countersunk :lol:
but good luck to you sir.
 
bobsabuilder said:
13 pin sockets are to be introduced to the test, or so I heard.
But 7 pin versions will not be tested!

looks like i may have egg on my face, we have not had an update yet, but it does seem that the 13 pin socket does indeed fall in for testing from last month.
i apologise for not knowing if my own ar@E is drilled bored or countersunk, and im off to examine it right now.....
pm sent to newnavara.
 
east cost ******* said:
bobsabuilder said:
13 pin sockets are to be introduced to the test, or so I heard.
But 7 pin versions will not be tested!

looks like i may have egg on my face, we have not had an update yet, but it does seem that the 13 pin socket does indeed fall in for testing from last month.
i apologise for not knowing if my own ar@E is drilled bored or countersunk, and im off to examine it right now.....
pm sent to newnavara.
Would a countersunk **** be likely to pass? :lol: :lol: :wink:
 
bobsabuilder said:
Headlight washer fuse is indeed in the hidden fuse box at the back of the abs unit on passenger side of engine bay.
It's in the centre, about the 3rd fuse down, 10amp red mini blade fuse. Think the fuse above it is a 30amp fuse as a guide.
Although I'm pretty sure there's a key to show you which is which.
Apologies for bumping an old thread but my headlight wash was not working (I don't think it ever worked since I bought the truck) and after much head scratching I found this post. I located the additional fuse box mentioned, nealy **** myself when I took the lid off and saw a circuit board underneath, I thought I have opened up some kind of ECU by mustake. I lifted out the circuit board assembly and turned it over to find the fuse exctly where "bobsabuilder" said it was and bingo.... it was blown. Replaced it and everything is good again.... :partycheer:
 
Biggi said:
This thread has had me in stitches !!!!
:lol: :lol:

Ditto I have only just read through it as bumped and thought the same Martin.......... :lol:
 
I remember reading this way back, shame ******* dont come on anymore, aint seen him around for a while, he has such a dry sense of humour.
Anyways, I dont have that problem, my flintstone truck dont have washers fitted :Saying that though :wink: It dont have limp mode, uj clonk or dodgy 4wd dodgy switch syndrome or even flakey paint itis? Am i missing something here? How come you lot in your new posh Navs have these & I dont :scratch: :mrgreen:
 
Spirit said:
I remember reading this way back, shame ******* dont come on anymore, aint seen him around for a while, he has such a dry sense of humour.
Anyways, I dont have that problem, my flintstone truck dont have washers fitted :Saying that though :wink: It dont have limp mode, uj clonk or dodgy 4wd dodgy switch syndrome or even flakey paint itis? Am i missing something here? How come you lot in your new posh Navs have these & I dont :scratch: :mrgreen:
You forgot the halfshaft and timing chain .... although you don't mention the D22 conrod problem :rockon
 
landmannnn said:
Spirit said:
I remember reading this way back, shame ******* dont come on anymore, aint seen him around for a while, he has such a dry sense of humour.
Anyways, I dont have that problem, my flintstone truck dont have washers fitted :Saying that though :wink: It dont have limp mode, uj clonk or dodgy 4wd dodgy switch syndrome or even flakey paint itis? Am i missing something here? How come you lot in your new posh Navs have these & I dont :scratch: :mrgreen:
You forgot the halfshaft and timing chain .... although you don't mention the D22 conrod problem :rockon

Er, I dont have a conrod problem either, no ever will & it aint had the bottom end mod done either :mrgreen:
 
What is the magic method for getting the lid off the fuse box? I can see my current method is heading towards smashing it open in frustration...!

There seems to be a clip on the nearside which does not a lot and doesn't positively engage or disengage, just seems to loiter. Then there are two tabs on the front and rear that bend outwards but can't get them to disengage. Am I missing something?
 
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