[Jem]

I think there's something about, if you try the remote button out of range too many times, it "unpairs" it.

It's to stop someone finding your key then walking around a carpal looking for lights flashing to find one unlocking.

Usually, you then have use the key I'm the door, then start the vehicle with it, to reactivate it. Not sure how it works with keyless though.

Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse brevity and mistakes.

 

[popsdosh]

I think there's something about, if you try the remote button out of range too many times, it "unpairs" it.

It's to stop someone finding your key then walking around a carpal looking for lights flashing to find one unlocking.

Usually, you then have use the key I'm the door, then start the vehicle with it, to reactivate it. Not sure how it works with keyless though.

Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse brevity and mistakes.

Its when I drive it just doesnt recognise key when i go to switch off and wont lock

 

[Jem]

Update: with all my additional wiring removed, the truck performed normally all week.

Just refitted the auxiliary fuse box in the engine bay, and powered direct from the battery. Also, moved the air horn from an inline fuse connected to the battery, to the new fuse box.

So far, so good.

Now to start adding the rest of my auxiliary wiring, bit by bit, and see what happens.

Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse brevity and mistakes.

 

[freemansteve]

Usually it is one of two things:
1) Wiring or parts added are obscuring the antenna used for the code transmissions, or more likely -
2) Adding wiring is itself acting as an antenna and picking external noise that is confusing the system

Either way, careful routing of new wires may be paramount.

 

[Jem]

Usually it is one of two things:
1) Wiring or parts added are obscuring the antenna used for the code transmissions, or more likely -
2) Adding wiring is itself acting as an antenna and picking external noise that is confusing the system

Either way, careful routing of new wires may be paramount.

In my opinion, it's option 2.

I'm thinking some ferrite rings might help.

Sent from my mobile device. Please excuse brevity and mistakes.

 

[Jem]

Right, so it's sorted!!

Put all my wiring back in today. So the light bar is now fed off a new fuse box, fed straight from the battery, and controlled by the new switch panel.
However, I'm not sure what's cured the issue with the fob. It could be one of three things;
- Negative connections now go to body instead of battery
- Battery is now fully charged after a good few motorway runs
- The four ferrite clips added at various points


Ferrite clips (shown as purple on my diagram) have been added;
- at each end of the VGA type cable which connects the switch panel to the switch control box, and runs close to the Start button
- to the switching cables, both inside the cab, and in the engine bay

I've also done away with the fuse box on the switching cables, as I couldn't find anywhere to mount It. It was never really necessary anyway, it was more just acting as a junction box, to be able to just add new devices to the switch as and when. Instead, I've now numbered the switch cables as they come into the engine bay, and just left them tied up with spade connectors on.