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The chain replacement would be a good idea. Plenty of posts on here about upgrading to duplex chains, but swapping like for like isn't too expensive.
It is often the guides that wear causing the slackness, so they need doing too.

I wonder if you got done over by the seller? Unscrupulous traders and sellers will often "cure" engine noise by adding thicker oil until the noise stops. That might account for the tar like oil and the overfill.
 
sorry I just thought it was noisey as it is a big diesel and ive only had small ones.
but if it has not had the chain replaced would it be best to do that now anyways, not sure I want it to snap, and then if needed change the scv.
I belive he had looked at the scv and it seemed ok.
Be very aware these do snap/jump sprockets without warning, and the bill will be a lot, lot bigger than just replacing the chain.
As Landmannn has already said you never mentioned the rattling before, this should not be present in a 'good' engine.
Tell Pierre or whoever he was, a new engine is NOT needed, but an urgent repair is, then don't return to him.
Have a good read on here about this commonplace D40 problem, there are pages and pages about it.
I now agree with your thread title, I would not be driving it until fixed.
 
With regards the timing chain, it is possible a stretched chain can cause timing errors in the engine. If it's that bad it could be only a wee bit longer before it snaps, so well worth swapping. Do not be tempted by anything less than either a full genuine kit or the duplex conversion sold by Billcar. This is a genuine replacement chain, http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=192084074444#ht_1862wt_1271
This is Billcar's duplex conversion, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Na...version-upgrade-kit-/182421385330?hash=item2a79297072:m:m50KcZmZekL1xNHWo2zO9aw

As for the SCV, checking it means nothing, for all they cost theses days, you could fit one to at least remove this from the equation.
 
Discussion starter · #24 ·
Thanks guys
Sorry I did mean a whole chain kit.

I should be having it done in the next couple of weeks.
I will do the scv but after the chain just to be sure that it is the chain that has caused the problem.
I will update as I get it sorted.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
problem continues

Hello All

Sorry its been a while.
Well the new chain kit has been fitted all fine, although my friendly mechanic was surprised at the amount of black sludge still left in the engine after all the cleaning. so he did as much as he could for me without taking the engine apart.
With new chain fitted much quieter.
But it only lasted 30 minutes then the engine shut down, he tried to restart and it stuggled but eventuly it fired up but eml came on and it went in to limp mode.
He tried the pedel reset but unfortunaly the description he had did not have the part to reset the ecu. then he had to go back to work, so the next day I went and had a look fired up no problem but still in limp mode and eml still on. so with the pedel reset I got off here I got the code 275 an then I reset it, ran fine for ten minutes then the same back in to limp mode and eml on, so did the pedel reset again this time I got code 274 and then I reset it again, this time after restarting no eml or limp mode but still cutting out at idle and sometimes fluctuations when accelerating.

The code refers to a problem with the fuel pump but does this mean just the fuel pump or could the scv be part of the same problem.

of to make tea back shortly
 
The fault codes are four figure numbers like this, P0123.

I suspect that you are getting P1274 and P1275. Both refer to the fuel pump and this could be related to the SCV which is fitted to the pump. Before you go splashing out on that, make sure there's no air being drawn into the fuel. H

ave you fitted a new genuine filter as per the guide?

A wee test for air in the fuel is to pump the primer bulb, it should harden up. Try this with the engine idling as well.
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
new filter fitted will check tomorrow how genuine. and also for air at the same time.
will get back to you tomorrow.
I have a little video of the flashing eml i will try and post it shortly.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
The fault codes are four figure numbers like this, P0123.

I suspect that you are getting P1274 and P1275. Both refer to the fuel pump and this could be related to the SCV which is fitted to the pump. Before you go splashing out on that, make sure there's no air being drawn into the fuel. H

ave you fitted a new genuine filter as per the guide?

A wee test for air in the fuel is to pump the primer bulb, it should harden up. Try this with the engine idling as well.
Primer bulb pumped and it went hard after two or three pumps.

Here is a pic of the fuel filter ( i hope )
 

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Discussion starter · #32 ·
Primer bulb pumped and it went hard after two or three pumps.

Here is a pic of the fuel filter ( i hope )
now how do I tell if this is a geniune nissan fuel filter.
I have looked on ebay for genuine fuel filter and they all seem to be genuine, with prices ranging from 15 pounds to 75 pounds how should I know which one I should get, as they all look the same as the one in the truck.

If someone could point me to the correct one that would be great.

Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Now Ive done all I can worked through the checklist.
Today I took the truck for a test drive since I havent done so after the timing chain kit was fitted, unfortunatly it has slightly different symtons now it doesnt always cut out when put into just very randomly now. i drove it about five miles without incident then it started to play up revs shooting about up and down then i got to a juction and it stalled then when I restarted the EML was on but still drove the same revs shooting all over the show I drove it back gently back to the house then I checked what code was on the EML an it was the same as before 0274 which responds to the fuel pump.
Now my question is as lots of you have mentioned changing the scv which is part of the fuel pump should this be done now.
 
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