[RD1903]

Should all 3 solenoids on the transfer box behave in the same way. For example, when doing a continuity test, when depressed, it beeps?

One beeps when fully depressed and the other two are the complete opposite!

Confused.com

 

[lookskyward1]

Ah it all becomes clear now. To me anyway, you are referring to the 3 switches NOT internal solenoids.

They do not behave the same when depressed, as you have discovered but they do work in harmony with each other.

They suffer from internal corrosion to the electrical contacts when the oil gets water contaminated. It's pretty pointless testing them as they may work as expected in testing but the plungers may not work to full depression during use. So although initially they appear to work they may not work correctly in operation.

Because of the difficulty in testing, we generally recommend changing the oil and possibly the rear output seal when fitting new switches. Given the low cost you can get these switches now, you might as well change all three. http://www.nissan-navara.net/59-reviews/28437-amayama-trading.html

I hope this helps.

 

[RD1903]

Ah it all becomes clear now. To me anyway, you are referring to the 3 switches NOT internal solenoids.

They do not behave the same when depressed, as you have discovered but they do work in harmony with each other.

They suffer from internal corrosion to the electrical contacts when the oil gets water contaminated. It's pretty pointless testing them as they may work as expected in testing but the plungers may not work to full depression during use. So although initially they appear to work they may not work correctly in operation.

Because of the difficulty in testing, we generally recommend changing the oil and possibly the rear output seal when fitting new switches. Given the low cost you can get these switches now, you might as well change all three. http://www.nissan-navara.net/59-reviews/28437-amayama-trading.html

I hope this helps.

So how can you tell if it's a dud switch then? If they appear to be working, is it not a bit of unessesary expense to replace if it's perhaps something else like the ECU or wiring?

 

[lookskyward1]

Don't shoot the messenger. I'm trying to help.

I do understand that you're getting frustrated but the weak point in this system is these three switches. Nine times out of ten replacing the switches solves the problem.

Because we don't have the resources of a dealer, sometimes the best way to diagnose and solve an issue is by replacing parts. In this instance, my advice to you, is to fit new switches and see how you get on from there.

 

[RD1903]

Don't shoot the messenger. I'm trying to help.

I do understand that you're getting frustrated but the weak point in this system is these three switches. Nine times out of ten replacing the switches solves the problem.

Because we don't have the resources of a dealer, sometimes the best way to diagnose and solve an issue is by replacing parts. In this instance, my advice to you, is to fit new switches and see how you get on from there.

Sorry, I appreciate the help. It was more so a question of how do you manage to diagnose the fault other than replacing bits. Surely Nissan themselves wouldn't just throw bits at a problem?

Have ordered some replacement switches (I'm more used to seeing them be referred to as the solenoids and the actual relays in the fuse box are called the switch (seeing as technically, that's the job that they employ - switch current from one path to another).

I'll maybe hang fire sending her in to Nissan for fault diagnosis in hope that three new transfer solenoid switches do the job.

Oil looks good (clean and red) so I think it's reasonably fresh. How does one replace the seal? Is that on the prop itself?