[Kris-Nav]

Just an update to the wits ends thread. I've had the head off the truck d22 yd25 04 reg. Had the head pressure tested and it was ok.. still had it skimmed. New head gasket, water pump, rad cap, new belts new coolant etc. The original problem is still there, bubbles in expansion tank and the heater still blows cold air on idle, when the truck is driven it blows warm air(wouldnt say it was hot when set on full). I've tried purging the air from the coolant I.e nose up with expansion cap off cycling the engine on off. I've looked at the manual online and they say there is a air relief bolt for bleeding the air but I couldn't for the life of me find it.

I'm thinking possible egr problem(no evidence though) or new radiator. Don't really want to spend more if it's not going to cure the problem.

HELP
Cheers in advance

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[s60r]

Just an update to the wits ends thread. I've had the head off the truck d22 yd25 04 reg. Had the head pressure tested and it was ok.. still had it skimmed. New head gasket, water pump, rad cap, new belts new coolant etc. The original problem is still there, bubbles in expansion tank and the heater still blows cold air on idle, when the truck is driven it blows warm air(wouldnt say it was hot when set on full). I've tried purging the air from the coolant I.e nose up with expansion cap off cycling the engine on off. I've looked at the manual online and they say there is a air relief bolt for bleeding the air but I couldn't for the life of me find it.

I'm thinking possible egr problem(no evidence though) or new radiator. Don't really want to spend more if it's not going to cure the problem.

HELP
Cheers in advance

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

Have you tried burping the system?

Park it on the steepest slope you can find, nose up, idle, take off the tank cap. Squeeze all pipes before it gets warm... repeat with nose down. Letting it warm up.

It worked in a previous Jeep with similar symptoms.

 

[Kris-Nav]

Yeah I've tried burping the system, but not sure if I've done it correctly.

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[roger-wilco-66]

Just an update to the wits ends thread. I've had the head off the truck d22 yd25 04 reg. Had the head pressure tested and it was ok.. still had it skimmed. New head gasket, water pump, rad cap, new belts new coolant etc. The original problem is still there, bubbles in expansion tank and the heater still blows cold air on idle, when the truck is driven it blows warm air(wouldnt say it was hot when set on full). I've tried purging the air from the coolant I.e nose up with expansion cap off cycling the engine on off. I've looked at the manual online and they say there is a air relief bolt for bleeding the air but I couldn't for the life of me find it.

I'm thinking possible egr problem(no evidence though) or new radiator. Don't really want to spend more if it's not going to cure the problem.

HELP
Cheers in advance

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

This won't help you, Kris, but I have the same problem.

The EGR water cooler should be easy to bypass for a test?

I also thought it might be possible to cut the upper heater water hose (should be the highest point) and insert a T section with a short upward pointing hose section and an air bleeder valve at the end. With that it should be possible to remove any trapped air in the block circuit.

I further wonder about the thermostate. What happens if it is not set in correctly? There's a small valve that must face the 12 oclock position according to the manual. There's no insertion key that makes sure the thermostate position is correct.

I'm waiting for rising temps to nail down the problem. No problems otherwise, it's just damn cold in the cab.

Cheers,
Mark

 

[landmannnn]

So is the engine getting to temperature?

If yes, the simple answer might be a blocked heater matrix. If somebody in the past has used radweld or similar, it will have got blocked.

 

[roger-wilco-66]

So is the engine getting to temperature?

If yes, the simple answer might be a blocked heater matrix. If somebody in the past has used radweld or similar, it will have got blocked.

The engine is getting to temperature normally. And no signs of overheating or any other anomalies except bubbling in the overflow tank.

A blocked heater circuit should be relatively easy to check by bypassing the heater matrix, just like the EGR cooling. To my knowledge, there has not been any previous radweld application, but who knows.

As soon as the outside temps are above 10 degC I'll do some bypass testing

@kris: I don't think it's the radiator. My guess is either the head gasket (which obviously can be ruled out in your case, me thinks) or a blocked heater core with air trapped in it.



Cheers,
Mark

 

[Kris-Nav]

I'm thinking either matrix fault/blockage but still getting small amounts of bubbles in the expansion tank so think it's air in the system. Going to buy a spill free funnel and try burping the whole thing. I've lost faith in garages as they seem to jump to the worst case (and expensive) straight away. Might as well block off the egr while I'm in There as well. Keep you posted.

Cheers for all your thoughts

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[landmannnn]

Yes, most garages are manned by people of limited skills, even Nissan.

It is quite common for example for garages to replace turbos and injectors at the drop of a hat.

 

[Markust]

I had a problem with my D22 recently, well I thought it was recent but thinking back now its probably been a while, turns out the top of my radiator under the crimped metal work had cracked the plastic and we had a small leak, for a while I had temp in the engine but nothing in the cab, new radiator only cost me £60 with a company here in Cornwall and we have heat again.

I always had bubbles and low water in the rad until I found the leak and on that note what colour antifreeze should I be using, been told pink but also green

 

[popsdosh]

I had a problem with my D22 recently, well I thought it was recent but thinking back now its probably been a while, turns out the top of my radiator under the crimped metal work had cracked the plastic and we had a small leak, for a while I had temp in the engine but nothing in the cab, new radiator only cost me £60 with a company here in Cornwall and we have heat again.

I always had bubbles and low water in the rad until I found the leak and on that note what colour antifreeze should I be using, been told pink but also green

You can use any colour you like . cheap blue is as good as any other but needs changing more often (every other year ) . The only difference with any colour is the additives that determine the length of effectiveness. Modern OAT2 formulations will be good for 150K. They all mix together dont believe the urban myths but you will need to change it more often once you have mixed an inferior product. Some of our machines actually have a clear antifreeze which caused some head scratching when we checked them the first year as we thought the tester had broken.

 

[Markust]

You can use any colour you like . cheap blue is as good as any other but needs changing more often (every other year ) . The only difference with any colour is the additives that determine the length of effectiveness. Modern OAT2 formulations will be good for 150K. They all mix together dont believe the urban myths but you will need to change it more often once you have mixed an inferior product. Some of our machines actually have a clear antifreeze which caused some head scratching when we checked them the first year as we thought the tester had broken.

Legend, thank you I will sort that job out at the weekend